- Design files on Thingiverse
- cheap tripod misused for front support
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This blog contains the daily technical endeavours of a freelancing software-designer.
2011-12-11
3d printed foldable shoulder rig with sound+video controls on handles
2011-12-10
2011-11-27
problem in battery grip conversion
Powering the GH1 works well for a while now but I'm working on getting the shutter button running. Made a mistake here.
The battery grip has a nice 2-stage button (full press+half press).
My circuit would work...if the full press would not ALSO close the circuit for the half press.
So at the moment you can only focus but not trigger a photo/video to be shot with that button.
So different from this one, I need to attach GND in-between focus and shutter, replace 3KOhm with 5KOhm and replace the 2KOhm with one that gives 2KOhm when used in parallel to a 5KOhm resistor (3.5KOhm).
Problem: That 2KOhm-resistor attaches to a 0.xmm trace on a tiny connector and took me days to get right without shorting any other pathes.
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2011-11-26
LED lights for th workshop
2011-11-20
GH1 battery grip
Managed to find some minutes for soldering on my GH1 battery grip.
Had to stop because there was no desoldering-wick left in the house.
No breakthrough with the GH2 external power issue (7.2V+crypto or 8.4V).
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shoulder rig modification
- 3d model on Thingiverse
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- shoulder rig used ($74+customs, no shipping)
- part used to build the attachment-adapters ($6.5 each)
- adapter used to mount the microphone ($8.8)
modified stage box
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- the Thomann SSSNAKE SXX8030 stage-box used
- The swivel-mounts used ($3.7 each, no shipping, no customs because of the low value)
2011-11-09
New Zoom RC04 holder RC2
- Design files on Thingiverse (coming soon)
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2011-11-05
5V USB power output for camera battery grips
2011-11-03
Tests for DIY battery grip for the Panasonic GH-2 camera
Last night the cables for the power supply.
Now I can see if it's possible to power the Panasonic GH2 cameras with modified Canon 550D battery-grips (7.2V) like I did with the GH1 model.
It looks like they tried to lock out 3rd-party batteries way stronger then with the GH1.
So if the power supply can't identify itself as Panasonic it *may be* that a higher voltage is required.
Then again, maybe it's just 2 hidden resistors in the fake battery used to attach their power supply.
If this fails, one of he cheap chinese battery-copies died on me last weekend.
So I may be able to simply gut that and use it's coulomb-counter+crypto chip but get the actual power from a battery-grip.
2011-11-02
New Zoom RC04 holder
- Original Design files on Thingiverse
- Design files on Thingiverse (coming soon)
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Resurrecting Thing-a-Matic
2011-10-27
Makerbot still failing
Projects in wiki
- The Wiki
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2011-10-25
printers out of order
2011-10-21
Stage box
A simple stage-box with 6 XLR female connectors, one thick 10 meter cable ending in 6 XLR male connectors.
The idea here is to replace 4 of the XLR female connectors with combined XLR+6.3mm ones to make this more versatile and to add 2 1/4" swivel-heads to mount microphones or a camera directly onto the box.
(You get these heads for cheap as mountings for security cameras.)
The swivel-heads shall double as a helper to keep the cable organised when not in use.
...maybe I'll come up with something to put into the mostly empty box.
Lots of wasted space that can be put to good use.
Maybe store adapters in there or batteries.
(click on the photo to see more.)
Update: the finished modification
E27 230V camera -flash light bulp
These devices are cheap and often included if you buy a light-stand or umbrella on ebay.
They have a number of problems that I am trying to solve by modifying it:
- The light-sensor can't be switched off, so this thing flashes when other prople then you try to take a photo with a flash. => I'll add a switch for that.
- You can't control the brightness. => I'm trying to come up with a way to do that. Have to talk with some people on how to do this.
- Your equaly cheap RF receiver will dangle off the side => I'm trying to include the PCB of these wireless flash triggers into the case and add a hot-shoe to the case in the process.
The PCB seems to be well labeled and the parts trivial to identify and large enough to solder.
I just need to be careful about all the traces that carry 230V.
(click to see the other photos) Looks like 130V AC is fed through diodes and a 0,2KOhm resistor (left side on this photo) labeled "200RJ" and "10 Watt" into 3x 275V 220uF capacitors. I guess replacing that giant resistor with a variable one that I can control with a knob could allow me to reduce the power in the capacitors and thus the power of the flash.
MicPlugUSB
I started with a T.Bon MicPlug USB that I got in an already opened packaging cheaper then the original low price tag.
It's not intended to be taken apart at all. That much is obvious.
But my plan here is to scrap most of the electronics anyway.
I want to keep the USB 5V to 48V phantom -power supply,
add a second XLR-connector to the end that formerly held all the cables,
move the USB-port to the side and
attach an unbalanced cable with a 2.5mm stereo to the side.
(Without the buttons there are enough holes for that.)
The resulting tube shall then allow me to connect 1 or 2 phantom powered microphones to my digital camera.
The USB-power shall come either from a battery-grip or one of these cheap USB-battery-packs.
(USB has emerged as the one universal power connection that is always avaliable.)
(Click the photo to see all the other photos.)
2011-10-16
more progress in wprkshop
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2011-10-15
Workshop
After installing the Basotect foam via Power Strips failed, I now tried nails.
They sort of work but it's not very good.
I also found a cheap compressor+limiter+expander+de-esser on eBay and modified the 19" mounting to mount it below the table in the "documentation" corner.
(Just between the "electronics" and the "mechanics" section of the workshop. ;)
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2011-10-14
sound proofing my workshop
2011-10-12
converting an XLR stage box
- camera-mount
- the stage box
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2011-09-28
Status of camera accessory projects
Another train ride.
Too cramped to continue with my 3d printed tripod on the laptop.
As for the 3d printed super battery grip for the GH1/GH2 , I'll probably leave out the phantom power and just provide USB power out for space reasons.
Then modify a cheap XLR2USB cable to take USB power and provide 2.5mm stereo out for the camera.
That is much more flexible to use and has even less weight and bulk to carry.
I ordered a cheap Chinese copy of a foldable camera rig that I want to modify to carry an optional rod system and microphone mounts.
Making a custom bag for it, I could have a lightweight shoulder rig that I can take straight out of the bag and be ready within seconds.
I'll probably have to replace all the cheap bolts and custom make the missing front support but being able to create any custom shape on the 3D printers, that should actually be fun.
2011-09-27
First draft: 3d printed carbon tripod
- 3D PDF file (click "File->Download Original to get it in 3D, Google Docs does not allow me to link to the original file but cannot display 3D content itself)
- Design files on Thingiverse (coming soon)
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2011-09-24
phantom powering batery grip
2011-09-23
black PLA arrived
They even included some sweets in the package. :)
To get my RepMan running again I'm currently mounting it on an IKEA table that fits 19" equipment.
I'll drill some holes into the table instead of using feet. This should keep the RepMan from moving at high speeds or when there's a know in the filament and the strong stepper motors pull the complete roll of filament up or the printer down.
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power for the new workshop
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2011-09-22
- Design files on Thingiverse (coming soon)
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[REPORT] Part Time Scientists - Moon Mission (at CCCamp 2011)
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2011-09-21
- A 3d printed conversion kit to build a battery grip for the GH1/GH2 camera that contains phantom-power for external microphones, connections for mains-power and to be powered by cheap USB-cellphone-power supplies and to supply USB-power itself (e.g. to my Zoom H4n USB-power-cable
- A 3D printed, 3 dimensional, 2 color microphone flag and a 3d-printed QR-code being printed as a 2-color print as an example of how to use the dual-head modification of the BitsFromBytes RepMan.
- a 3d printed carbon (CFK) ultra-lightweight yet very sturdy camera tripod (3 telescopic segments, 2 rods per leg, cross-supports made from sturdy fabric)
- ....
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2011-09-19
New house and new workshop
Properly secured electricity for the new workshop is underway.
(3 tables with their own small circuit-breaker,
one FI safery switch for everything except light
and a huge emergency-off always within reach.)
I have tables now and the sound-proofing for walls and ceiling is in the late planning stages.
Table drill (way too large but I like that for accuracy in terms of position and rotational speed) with many ways to adjust it's surface
and a small grinder for cleaning up 3d printed parts are already there.
I still have to decide on a good table-saw.
The large tools can be moved around the room to use them on large things freely.
One table will be reserved for small machine building
with a properly sorted collection of nuts and bolts.
M2-M12 as well as 1/4" and 3/4" in a number of standard sizes.
I'll then try to limit myself to these sizes where ever possible in later designs for the 3d printer.
Another table will be for electronics with a raised stand for soldering station, soldering fume filter, illuminated magnifying glass,... .
In the corner there will be my large microphone to document whatever I'm working on along the way.
Camera mounting points with markers on the tables where the recorded frame ends are also planned.
The room is very small with a low ceiling.
I'll try to sound proof it to protect both my hearing and that of the neighbors.
...still a long way to go but it's slowly taking shape now.
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2011-09-17
New Dropbox API
I'll have a good look at it one of these days and probably update my Android Dropbox apps.
Of cause this will take a while as I'm still in the process of moving to a new house.
That's also why I haven't written much in the weeks after CCCamp 2011.
2011-09-12
moving in
The reason is simple. I'm still moving and will be for a few weeks at least.
I'm building myself a really nice workshop in the new house and this takes a while.
Current status:
Way too large (and thus hopefully accurate in terms of positioning and rotational speed) drill press and a belt+stone grinder for cleaning up 3d printed parts are already there.
I still haven't decided on a large saw yet.
These will be the largest tools and mounted to very sturdy movable tables to not be restricted by the walls.
The first tables and drawers are now in place. So I can start stowing things away and get the cardboard boxes out.
Walls and work-areas on the tables are still to be done.
On the long table I want to set up set up 2 work-areas.
One for electronics (with soldering-station,.. and a wall of small bins to have a sorted set of the most common parts).
One for smart-parts engineering with a row of all typical M3-M12 nuts, bolts, wing-nuts, locking-nuts and threaded rods and of cause the usual tools like metric+imperial+torx hex-keys, wrenches and screw-drivers.
Of cause the large Repman will have it's fixed place too and the mobile Thing-o-Matic too!
The interesting part will come after these walls are assembled.
In the corner I want to set up my microphone and on both work-stations fixed 1/4 camera-bolts (plus markings on the work-table where the video frame ends) to document things I'm working on.
The walls and ceiling will be covered with acoustics foam both to protect my hearing and the neighbors from the noise of the table drill and to get a nice, dry sound recording when I'm speaking.
2011-08-11
CCCamp
I hope that my 5th attempt to upload at least the opening ceremony as a 3d video to YouTube now works.
At the end of the day I simply collapsed into my car to sleep. (drive all night and then had a camp day....)
update: video upload finally worked!
Update 2: My little video got mentioned on the CCC twitter stream.
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2011-08-07
3d dual remote shutter for Panasonic GH1
I managed to solder myself a dual remote shutter to
get both of my cameras to release the shutter at the same time
or start a video recording at the same time.
More on this later....
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Battery grip for Panasonic GH1 working
After a first failed attempt (because red and black wires inside the grip I modified where switched)
I managed to get the Canon 450D -grip working with my GH1 using the default battery-dummy they ship with the camera.
(Optional for the GH2)
I'll take this prototype to CCCamp and start working on the higher level features
like getting the shutter-button to work after the camp.
Then I'll try to write it down as a howto and probably release a video about it too.
- Photos
- DSLR-Forum
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2011-08-06
getting my sound equipment organised
I just created myself 2 additional cases like the one I use for my camera equipment but for all the sound-stuff that has piled up.
I also got myself some Yellow+Green tape to make what cables and equipment is mine and added this unusual color-code to the Hx² wiki -entry about the studio we'll have at the camp.
As I already started by getting my Zoom H4n USB-powered I hope to get a first proof-of-concept for a battery grip for one of my GH1 cameras working.
With some additional SD-cards that should grant me enough recording-time to cover what I want to cover using either multiple camera angles or 3D video. Both with external, high quality sound.
- Photos
- battery grip
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2011-08-01
Powering a Zoom H4n via USB
The 2 AAA-batteries in the H4n are always dead.
It does have a 230V power-adapter.
In fact, I have two that fit it.
But that's no good on the road.
For my cell-phone I now have this cheap USB-power-supply that I can recharge at any USB-port (and even hand through that power to the real device to charge that too.
Thus only requiring a single USB-port).
As the H4n also runs on 5V, I tried to solder myself a USB-to-H4n adapter and it actually worked!
(GND on the outside, +5V on the center contact)
The nice thing is that the H4n automatically switches between it's batteries and external power.
So now I can even attach USB-power, switch the batteries while drawing USB-power and then run on the fresh batteries when USB-power dies too.
2011-07-29
taking apart a camera
However some Chinese thought it would be funny to *reverse the meaning of red and black wires*.
So I ended up frying my expensive camera.
...Took me ages and multiple failed attempts but I was able to find the fried sub-micron diode.
Tried to source a replacement diode.
...it turned out that a regular SMD- diode is still 5 times bigger then the one they used and does not fit mechanically.
Placed a 0,8mm wire over this 0.2mm diode. (Sorry, I can't cut shorter wires without a microscope.)
for (int i=0; i<7; i++) {PS:
Put everything back together, black screen.
Took it apart, found a missing connector.
(dozens of them, all sub-millimeter mylar types.)
}
It switches on but I can't shoot pictures. Remote-trigger works.
Took it apart.....
....
....
....
....
....
Camera is working again.
It really hurts to touch the high-voltage part that powers the flash.
2011-07-28
Good News and Bad News
the good news is:
My new threaded rods to upgrade my Repman arrived.
(And some 15mm aluminum pipes to replace the heavy
steel-pipes in my shoulder-rig.)
The bad news:
My long awaited ABS from china also arrived.
The surface is marred, it's brittle and there
are 0.5mm air bubbles inside the filament.
I have no hope that one can use this for 3d printing at all.
And I got the minimum of 20Kg of this junk.
The company is:
Qingdao TSD Plastic Co.,Ltd.
Add.:No.48, Ruijin Road, Qingdao, China.
Website: www.qdtsd.net
MSN: hongyong_zhang@live.cn
Free Line: (86)400-688-0532
Office Line:(86)532-81936899
Mobile No.:(86)158-54279111
I found a wiki-page about this to compare noted on different companies.
3d printed camera belt clip
I was impressed with my B-Grip. However it would not accept my Manfrotto quick-release plates that I have on all cameras and tripods,... .
So I designed this one, based on the existing camera-plate of my 3d printed shoulder rig.
I guess it will be hard to print due to it's size and the large overhang.
I hope to include a pause G-Code in the overhang to insert the actual belt as a support.
That should make it 3d printable.
We'll have to see.
PS:
This time I not only did a colored rendering and technical drawing with dimensions and a 3d PDF with the movable model and the drawings but also included the thingiverse-URL to the part into the PDF.
- second Google+ posting
- first Google+ -posting
- Design files on Thingiverse
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