2015-09-19

Nexus 7 repairs



The USB port on my generation 1 Nexus 7 tablet (with GSM SIM card) was getting wonky and more often then not it refused to charge.
Luckily the replacement part is cheap.

...while at it I got myself a very nice set of phone-opening tools with scratch-free plastic hooks, spatulas, suction cups, wedges, cleaning tools, scalpels, metric <2mm a="" and="" full="" nbsp="" of="" p="" screwdrivers="" set="" tiny="" torxes="">...I just can't resist a good set of tools.


    2015-09-11

    Ciclop 3D scanner

    old and busted:  FabScan


    I have a FabScan Cube (build from the kit sold at Wattenrott) for quite some time now. However I'm massively disappointed by the software. The last software (100.9) that supports MacOS is neolithic and can no longer be used since MacOS 10.9 "Mavericks".
    There is a processing script to use the scanner but calibrating it is a game of guessing and source code manipulation. If I got a scan out of it at all (very touchy about environmental light), it was all ball shaped and incomplete.
    A new software (that requires a Raspberry Pi) was promised to be released half a year ago...it never happened.
     

    new: Ciclop

    http://diwo.bq.com/en/presentacion-ciclop-horus/

     

     So being fed up with the FabScan, I got myself a completely new Ciclop scanner as a factory made kit. The parts are 3D printed very well and everything more or less fits.
    You can 3D print the parts yourself and just get an electronics kit and a number of nuts, bolts and (metric) threaded rods.
    • The scanner is not  stable against torsion forces. So it must rest on a perfectly flat surface.
    • The stepper movement is not very gentle. So any flexible object will move around during scanning.
    • It does require 2 USB ports and 1 power socket (to power the stepper motor).

    Horus 

    Horus is the software that is supposed to operate with the Ciclop.
    It looks very easy to use but seems to still have some practival issues in doing the automatic calibration. Notable one but where it will constantly tell you that the stepper direction is wrong.

    I haven't gotten it to scan using 2 (or more) lasers yet as this results in 2 scans that don't match up at all. With a single laser it has a very limited scan volume and your object should contain all parts of the axis of rotation inside itself but it does work.
    I haven't gotten around to check if the physical dimensions as replicated precisely yet and that there are no distortions.
       

    2015-07-14

    Debugging Android Wear support for K-9 Mail

    I started a branch to develop proper Android Wear support for the popular K-9 mail client.
    The last few weeks I was grinding on a strange error.
    It would create PendingIntents for the different actions for each individual message.
    Because on Wear the messages are shown as a stack and you can act on each of them.

    What I found was that it would issue the right action...on the wrong message.
    Always the firt message of the notificaiton.


    I think I found it.
    PendingIntents are not created. They are requested.
    If the same PendingIntent already exists, it is returned.
    The "same" means same Action, same Data, ...  But not same Extras.
    The message ID was transmitted as an Extra.

    This was no problem up to now, because most people you would only ever have one notification.
    But even in the existing code this bug would have hit (and hit hard inc ase of the  "delete" action) if you have multiple accounts configured and choose an action on the second notification, you would get it with the parameters of the same action on the first notification.

    I'm considering the Android Wear branch of K-9 to be BETA-quality now
    and am using it myself daily to find bugs.

    2015-07-04

    printing working threads on an Ultimaker II extended

    Even at 20 micron and less layer height, most theads have too many threads-per-millimeter/threads-per-inch to be reasonably 3D printed.
    I'm regularly using a thread cutter on 3D printed parts to do this instead.

    Now I have some  solenoid valves with a very strange NPT1/2 thread.
    This is a very rare imperial sized, trapezoidal (getting smaller, not staying at one diameter)
    thread with only 1,814mm per thread instead of 1mm.
    (BTW NPT1/2 isn't even near 1/2" in size. )
    So it looks like a perfect test to 3D print the thread without cutting.

    Due to the extreme heat recently, I had some issues with my Ultimaker II extended at first.




    But int he end it worked out.
    Here is the same thread printed in normal quality,  high quality(at 200% speed) and ulti quality (40 micron).
    The (at first) strange result it, that the thread printed at normal quality was far more clean then the other ones.
    ...that is until you think about a thread as one giant overhang. A thicker layer-height seems to work better for overhangs as it's not as compressed by the next layer. This is no problem in solid areas bu when there is air below the layer...you can guess.








    Fits perfectly!

    2015-05-02

    implementing K9 mail wear support - stacked notification issue

    I'm currently implementing K9 issue 619 "add Andoid Wear Support".
    You can find the code in branch issue-619_AndroidWearSupport.
    Basic support to delete(if no confirmation on the phone is configured), archive and spam all messages  of a given notification is done and working well.

    My currently issue is that I added stacked notification exactly as documented.
    The problematic code starts in MessagingController:4941 .

    My summary notifcation is only shown on the phone, not the watch. OK.
    BUT: my stacked notifications (With setGroup(...) but no setGroupSummary(true) are ALSO shown on the phone. These are supposed to be only visible on the watch.
    Every documentation, example and StackOverflow posting shows me that I'm doing everything right and that there should be no way for this to ever happen.

    I guess I need an additional pair of eyes to look through at this code.

    2015-04-28

    Added Android Wear support for K9

    I just added some very first Android Wear support for the K9 mailer.
    The default actions where unsatisfactory as "reply" doesn't work on a watch unless you implement the voice recognition feature. "delete" shouldn't be offered if "confirm delete" is active and thus the user needs to confirm an action on the phone that he/she initiated on the watch.

    For the time being I added "delete" (if confirm is off), "archive" and "spam".
    Extensive checks are done to make sure these actions are possible. Since afterwards the user can not be informed about them failing as Toasts will apear on the phone, not the watch.

    The plan is to
    • have the user select what 3 actions to show on watch+phone for single messages and groups of new messages
    • stack the notifications about multiple new messages
    • add the ability to reply using voice input

    2015-04-26

    Ultimaker II Glue Stick issues

    Help!

    As glue-stick I have used the triangular Teasy EasyStick so far and they worked great.
    However now the winter is gone and I had to move the printer to another city.
    It's not as cool and the room is much smaller.
    The ambient temperatures are rising above 23°C at 50° humidity indoors with a 75°C or 60°C heated bed and nearly no air flow in the tiny room and the glue stick completely evaporates within 10-30 seconds.

    Filament either doesn't stick (if applied too early) or objects curl up and detach from the glass (if applied right before the print starts).

    What European household brand of glue stick works in high temperatures? (Sorry, no Elmer's Invisible Glue on the right side of the pond.)
    I don't have wood glue in the house but I'll try to get some and mix it with water to try.
    I don't like to apply hair spray directly and the brand I tried doesn't work when applied to a piece of paper and then rubbed onto the glass.

    2015-03-29

    Ultimaker II servicing

    My replacement glass fiber reinforced PTFE liners for the Ultimaker II hotend arrived.
    While replacing parts I looked up just how long this Ultimaker II has been printing so far:
    machine has been on for 2954 hours
    printing for 1855 hours using 1166 meters of 2.85mm filament.

    The PTFE is pretty banged up for sure.

    In the forum people talk about 300-500 hours before seeing serious degradation.


    I replaced the PTFE,
    doing a cold-pull cleaning in the process,
    Added a piece of aluminium foil,
    cleaned the extruder gears
    cleaned the bed

    ...now let's start with the next 2000 hours of printing.


    PS:
    I just found out you can get them (for a premium price) at Reichelt or
    remakes (no mention of glass fiber) at  another German Store and in China too.
    Without Fedex.

    2015-03-23

    LPG Preismelder Android app updated

    Project history 

    1. Previous project: none
    2. last step: Improvements to LPG/CNG Price Reporter
    3. current posting
    4. next step: LPG Preismelder Android app updated again
    5. Next project: Android App for Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K

    After a long time, I have finally found the time to update my old fuelstation finder for GPL/CNG fuled cars to a current Maps API and current design language.
    The buggy OpenStreetMap code had to go. For the time being there is only the Google Map now.
    The overlays are completely redone,
    the layout of cause uses proper fragements,
    the geolocation API usage and settings handling is updated as well.

    Links:



  • App on Google Play
  • 2015-03-18

    Google Code to Github Migration tool failing

    Due to Google Code shutting down,
    I scheduled the OpenStreetMap Vespucci Map editor project for Android to be migrated tonight (all commits done).
    However the migration tool offered seems to consistently fail. :/
    And I'm not alone.
    Github has identified files >100Mb to be the most prominent cause but since my and other people's entire repository is considerably smaller, that isn't the case here.

    2015-03-16

    Kevin Lee

    I just found this excellent blog by Kevin "0x7D" Lee.

    Must reach these later:


    He seems to be using the same printer I am (Ultimaker II) in the same way (very high precision parts at maximum reliability).
    Not just "buy a printer and print trinkets I found from Youmagine or Thingiverse"

    Ultimaker II issues

    I'm using my Ultimaker II a lot and I'm taking good care of a clean nozzle.

    Now I'm starting to get underextrusion issues.
    1. I cleaned the bed of any glue stick residue
    2. leveled the bed
    3. cleaned the nozzle using cold pull until I could see through
    4. Extruder tension was at minimum, I tightened it until the indicator was in the center

    The issue is still there. Just with a bit more skipping then before
    It started last week with an object that requries lots of retraction and happened after hours of printing.
    Usually my objects need no or nearly no retraction. So I didn't think much about it.
    How it happens in a perfectly cleaned and recalibrated printer within the first layer.

    Next steps
    I fear my PTFE liner may be completely used up.
    I did order 2 new ones but since they get delivered with FedEx, they may not reach me.
    (No delivery after work hours and no possibility for me to pick them up.)

    I'll loosen the extruder tension again and redo the cleaning.
    Maybe I just over-tightened the extruder.

    Results
    The underextrusion returned within minutes in the first layer.
    I lowered the extruder tension and set my first layer to run at 50% speed until my replacement parts arrive.
    This helped a lot.

    2015-03-12

    Ultimaker Pro and Contra

    3D printer (Ultimaker II) working on another 26h build...
    That's a small one by my standards. While I'm away for the weekend it will do another 3 day job and I have even run extremely detailed 40 and 100h jobs without any hickup.
    ...at 20 Micron, that's 0.02mm compared to 0.1 or 0.2 or 0.25mm in other printers.
    ...out of the box with good quality filament.

    Reliability

    I just love the reliability. Never seen anything like it with RepMan 3.0/3.2, ThingOMatic (on the contrary), Makibox. For exactly that teason I'll never, ever again buy a Makerbox Industries product.
    (Apart from "Takerbot")
    I hope Makerbot will get a lot of competition, now that Ultimaker has extended from Europe to North America.

    Maintenance

    You should regularly
    • check extruder tension. The indicator on the side should not be in the upmost position. Insert an allen key/hex key in the top and turn left (out) to make it tighter, right (in) to make it loose
    • check bed leveling
    • clean your nozzle with a cold pull (manually push filament through, then cool to 70-90°C and pull it out). Don't pull or push too hard as the PTFE liner is only held down by a spring and downward filament movement. It's als called the "atomic method" but it was known long before there was a U2 forum.
    • clean the bed of residue glue stick with a wet paper towel, reapply a very thin layer of new glue

    Maximum spool size





    Given that reliability, it's printing A LOT. 750g spools are extremely inconvenient.
    These 2.2Kg spools from Colorfabb from are great.
    I'd have loved 5Kg or 20Kg spools (both sizes I used before, stored next to older printers using garden hose holders)
    but 2.2Kg is the maximum the Ultimaker II can hold.
    Everything else would be wider and lower then the body of the printer itself.

    The Near Future


    I can't wait for the Ultimaker II Extended, that I already preordered!
    The increased hight combined with the reliability of an U2 is exactly what I need for my parts.

    Spare parts and shipping

    The only downside is that is demanding steep prices for the wear parts (PTFE liner, nozzle, hot end pack), dubling the price with their enourmous shipping fees and seems to use express curiers.

    (Of cause if this is a minor issue and if it's the only thing I can complain about, that says a lot about the quality and reliability. I'm using this printer nearly constantly day and night.)

    Express meaning it takes twice as long and may not reach you at all if you just so happen to work during the day. Curiers don't have post offices everywhere where you can pick up your packages after hours.
    They often don't have storage locations in the same city reachable without a car and they don't deliver or offer pickup on weekends.
    So for me they are evil as I work Monday to Friday in different cities.
    Express curier services are for and ONLY for deliveries to businesses that have offices open 9-5.
    NOT for delivering to private citizen who work in these offices 9-5 and are thus not at home.
    They are NOT replacements for postal services. They where never intended to be.
    With the new Ulti-Quality setting the first layer needs a lot of attention and benefits from reduced speed and increased filament flow.
    After that it's great. I don't mind that that it takes ages as it reduces the time I spend in sanding and other post processing after the machine has finished it's job.

    2015-02-26

    Free OpenFx plugins for Resolve

    Since Resolve (and the free Resolve Lite) doesn't support one OpenFX method,
    the Openfx-Misc set of free plugins needed an update.
    After a discussion in the Blackmagic forum, this has now happened.
    I was able to compile them without any issues and they do show up in my Resolve 11 Lite on MacOS.

    On a side node: openfx_yadif (for deinterlacing) is still crashing in export after 5-20 frames. It does work in the color tab. Even with playback running.

    2015-02-10

    Searching for a monitor

    I'm thinking about a wide color gamut display for Color Grading in Blackmagic design - Davincy Resolve.
    It will also be used in Final Cut Pro X.
    ...and VLC. ;)

    Options


    The HP Dreamcolor Z27x (720eur 2048 x 1556)
    sems to be more affordable compoared to
    the EIZO ColorEdge CG247-BK (1500eur 1.920 x 1.200)
    or EIZO ColorEdge CG277-BK (2000eur 2.560 x 1.440).
    You save 100-200eur for the calibration device but both need the Ultrastudio Mini Monitor as an added cost factor.

    NOT the smaller Z24x (400-550eur 1920x1200) because
    * that doesn't calibrate without a PC like the Z27x does and the software only exists for Windows.
    (http://www.liftgammagain.com/forum/index.php?threads/new-hp-dreamcolor-monitors-4k-capable.2694/page-6)
    * it doesn't have the same kind of panel or the same precision as the Z27x
    http://www.liftgammagain.com/forum/index.php?threads/new-hp-dreamcolor-monitors-4k-capable.2694/page-8

    100% sRGB Coverage
    100% Adobe RGB Coverage
    100% BT. 709 Color Coverage
    99% of DCI-P3 Coverage

    Setup


    I'm planning to use the
    Blackmagic Ultrastudio Mini Monitor
    to output 10bit 4:2:2 YUV
    since the newer Z27x supports the DreamColor Engine with YUV and not only RGB now and the Mini Monitor is limited to YUV only.

    Calibration


    One problem I have is that the cheapest, supported calibration device (HP DreamColor Calibration Solution(B1F63AA)) for the Z27x seems to be half the price of the entire monitor (200eur). :/

    A Spider4Pro or Spider4Elite that cold also calibrate my other displays and laptops would not work with the internal LUT of this display. :/
    On the other hand the  B1F63AA is much more accurate then the Spider will ever be.


    Evaluation


    Z27x
    720eur + 100eur + 150eur = 720eur
    • less quality control
    • no sun shade
    • 4K downscaling, 1:1 4 corners + center + dynamic panning
    • 2 DisplayPort 1 HDMI
    • 100% sRGB Coverage
      100% Adobe RGB Coverage
      100% BT. 709 Color Coverage
      99% of DCI-P3 Coverage
       

    CG247-BK
    1500eur + 100eur = 1600eur.
    • 100% sRGB
    • 99% AdobeRGB
    • 100% Rec709
    • 95,4%DCI
    CG277-BK
    2000eur + 100eur = 2100eur.
    • 4K downscaling and 1:1 4 corners
    • 100% sRGB
    • 99% AdobeRGB 
    • 100% Rec709
    • DCI: 93%


    2014-12-16

    OpenBCI

    After doing some initial ECG experiments with a simple Arduino shield,
    I got my OpenBCI from Kickstarter just in time for 31C3.
    For the time being, I'll use this blog posting to collect some links and notes until I get things sorted out.
    Much of the OpenBCI documentation on the official site and source code repository is still unwritten,
    so I need to do a lot of hunting, gathering, guessing and experimenting.

    Results so far:
    • I see clear signals with lots of SNR for muscle movements and eye movement
    • The OpenBCI_GUI app has way too little in the ways of signal analysis.
    • I'm having trouble using my Olimex EEG designs in BrainBay with the OpenBCI


    Getting started
    People/Talks/Blogs

    SW

    HW

    Headware

    2014-11-26

    ECG/EOG/EEG experiments

    I'm a backer of OpenBCI  but they still haven't delivered.
    (Other people have, 3 days ago)
    So I just ordered myself a "Shield-EKG-EMG" from Watterott.

    I managed to get my heatbeat.
    (That's the easiest you can do.)
    Next step shall be tests of Electro Oculography (electric eye tracking).








    Just some notes for myself:



    EOG

    Signal is in the range of 1mV peak to peak .
    Eye-blinking artifact is very strong.
    50Hz line noise must be removed (of cause). (notch fiter)
    low-frequency cutoff to 0.02 Hz
    high-frequency cutoff 50Hz


    2014-11-21

    Accuracy tesing 3D scanner



    I want to know how well the Sense 3D scanner together with the Skanect software (since the Sense software only works on one computer per scanner and is pretty much crap without CUDA) captures mechanical dimensions.
    Both in terms of absolute dimensions in millimeters (scaling of the entire part) and in terms of relative sizes of components to each other.

    As a first test I scanned my camera. It's a small object and I had an error of about 10mm for a 130x70mm part in all 3 dimensions. Not very good.


    Then I scanned my face.
    Cleaned up that scan in Skanect, then NetFabb, then Meshlab (because the free NetFabb version doesn't allow you to fix some errors unless you buy the pro version).
    Then imported that mesh into Geometric Design (my CAD program with 3D scanner and -printer integration).
    Designed a mask with no allowance (not even under the nose or in the eyes).
    Printed that mask on my Ultimaker II using default settings.
    result?  It fits my face perfectly!

    I'm currently waiting for a FabScan Cube to also scan small objects, where the Sense failes and am waiting for Skanect to support my higher resolution Kinect V2 for Windows. (I'll try the libfreenect2 software on MacOS/Linux next week.)




    2014-11-17

    Im Labyrinth der Telekom


    Ich habe einen Business-Tarif. 3 SIM-Karten, nutzt viele Daten (>2GB), nutze ausgiebig die Telekom-Hotspots in den DB Zügen/Bahnhöfen/Mc Donalds, LTE ist mir egal, iPhones auch, telephoniere kaum 5 Minuten im Monat und verschicke keine SMS.
    So weit so einfach.
    ....bis man mal auf der Website von T-Mobile seinen Tarif vergleichen und ändern will.




    Ok, ich kann nicht mehr.
    nach Wochen kann ich in diesem verd****** Labyrinth von Website bei T-Mobile mich weder einfach mal als Kunde einloggen,
    noch meinen Tarif ändern
    noch die Hälfte der Tarife ohne "nur für Neukunden",
    weder mit "Mit Surfstick", noch "Mit Tablet zum Basic-Tarif"  noch "Mit Tablet zum Premium-Tarif"
     überhaupt sehen.
    Geschweige denn mal sinnvoll vergleichen.
    Man wird mit seitenweisen PDF Formularen zum ausdrucken ,ausfüllen und per Brief schicken belästigt um sich im Business-Bereich einzuloggen obwohl man schon 3 Logins hat.
    Ich will keinen Lieferstatus für ein verd***** iPhone, LTE interessiert mich nicht die Bohne,
    es interessiert mich nicht was ihr für bunte Preise gewonnen haben wollt,
    ich will nicht noch ein neues Handy,
    ich will keine @t-mobile oder @t-online Addresse,
    kein Adressbuch, kein Spotify und keinen Kalender!
    Ich will einfach nur meinen Tarif für meine Nutzung mit den aktuellen Angeboten vergleichen und bequem ändern können, wenn mir das Vorteile bringt.
    Und zwar ohne mich erst zu Arbeitszeiten in's Auto setzen zu müssen, zu irgend einem Laden zu fahren wo ich stundenlang warten muss und dann nur einzelne Details von Tarifen an den Kopf geworfen zu bekommen ohne übersichtlich die Kosten mit allen für mich nötigen Optionen gegenüberstellen zu können.
    Das kann doch nicht so schwer sein das Kerngeschäft eines Mobilfunkanbieters zu betreiben.
    Jeder schmierige Versicherungsvertreter kriegt das besser hin!


    2014-11-13

    Micro Mesh Pad Holder

    I'm using Micro Mesh mini sanding pads (regular and MX) extensively.
    So I designed myself a pad-holder that would
    • keep them sorted
    • allow them to dry (wet sanding)
    • tell me the coarseness
    • have symbols to roughly compare the coarsness of regular and MX pads
    • interlock to extens this sorting system
    • add a module for bottles of Mr Surfacer while I'm at it anyway


    I printed these on an Ultimaker II. Every module needs about 7 hours using the Cura medium quality default settings.

    2014-10-30

    Adventures with a Sense 3D scanner

    I have a problem.
    I got a used 3D Systems "Sense" 3D scanner as an Amazon warehouse deal.
    (Same manufacturer as my CAD Software, so they integrate perfectly.)

    The package did not include the activation code.
    Some former user has already activated the software, so I can't activate it.
    Amazon has no information about the former owner, so they can't contact him/her.
    3D Systems does not answer the phone on their German hotline.
    So I just sent them an email about the issue....maybe they can reset it or give me an activation code.

    Update: Wow! After 17 minutes I git an email with an activation code asking for my user-name, so it can be associated with my account. That's damn fast customer service!

    Notes:

    • I'm using 3D Systems Geomagic Design as my CAD software. Since they don't have a MacOS version, it runs in a VM with Windows XP.
    • The Sense software installs on XP but crashes on start. Only Windows 7, 8 and 8.1 are supported. :(
    • The Sense scanner registers with Windows as a Carmine Primesense and works with Skanect just like a Kinect but has MUCH BETTER RESULTS then an XBox 360 Kinect V1 sensor. (My Kinect V2 for Windows is not supported yet.) Also more ergonomic to handle.
    • The MacOS Sense software is not signed by a registred developer, so at first MacOS refuses to execute it unless you enter the system settings and add an exception for this program. 
    • On MacOS the Sense software FREEZES MY MACBOOK during entry of the activation code. No mouse or keyboard anymore. Not so on my desktop iMac.
    • The Sense software looses track every 2 seconds where Skanect works just fine, display a white page instead of the scan result and offers only ".ply" as an output format, no STL.
    • Displays a static image on the iMac. The movement commands for touchpad and 3-button wheel-mouse don't work (with a 1-button mouse).


    2014-10-28

    VisualSFM

    After Autodesk 123D Catch didn't work at all even given a perfect series of photos,
    I'm now trying to get VisualFSM to work.

    ...stay tuned.



    FabScan

    I just found the FabScan project of RWTH Aachen.
    Aparently back in January it was still quite buggy but nowadays you can get complete kits and there is a very interesting 2-laser + Z stepper spinoff being developed.

    This blog post is basically for myself so I don't forget these links. ;)

    Rooting Jiake P6

    I finally managed to root my Jiake P6 non-camera phone.



    "Root Genius"  (worked)

    http://www.gizchina.de/downloads/viewdownload/3-flashtools-firmwarebearbeitung/34-root-genius.html
    http://www.gizchina.de/downloads/viewdownload/3-flashtools-firmwarebearbeitung/33-universal-adb-treiber.html


    ADB method (did not work)

    using the MTK or the Google driver
    MKT Driver won't be offered as a driver for this phone after install
    http://forum.fairphone-freunde.de/Thread-MT65xx-Android-Phone-Treiber-nicht-gefunden
    http://developer.android.com/sdk/win-usb.html#top
    http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2247537

    2014-10-27

    Kinect V1 with diopters


    Intended use

    My CAD program of choice is Geomagic Design (started out as Alibre Design). Since the last major release it can import meshes (and even directly use 3D scanners of the same manufacturer) and convert these into solid geometries.
    I already used these features heavily for 3D modelled meshes of organic, artistic parts.
    What I want to do is use it's advanced features of reconstructing technical parts with flat surfaces, right angles and precise holes with an affordable 3D scanner.
    So based on the promise that Skanect will support the Kinect V2 on the day of official sale, I preordered one with Microsoft half a year ago.

    Current status 

    Skanect still didn't deliver the promised Kinect V2 support and i am tired of waiting with my Kinect V2 in hand.
    Thus I got myself a used XBox 360 Kinect V1 and am testing Skanect on MacOS with it to get some first experiences with 3D scanning using this device. Hopefully these will help me get better results with the Kinect V2 later.

    ...the 3D scan results are terrible so far.
    Small object (size of a hand) are not much more then a blob with heavily rounded features.
    It may be useful for object the size of a human, maybe barely useful for entire faces as long as dimentional accuracy is not important (no masks that actually fit well) but not for smaller objects.
    I'm looking into hacks that may improve this by reducing the minimum focus distance and thus concentrating the low resolution fully onto the  (small) object.

    +3 diopters didn't help at all.

    Stock Kinect

    Minimum focus distance in normal mode: 80cm  (1/0.8m = 1.25 dioptrien)
    Minimum focus distance in near mode: 40cm  (1/0.4m = 2.5 dioptrien)
    Near Mode is Kinect V1 for Windows only
    Accuracy: 2-3mm in a distance of 1.5m
    IR resolution: 640x480 but only 1 depth value per cluster.

    Kinect V2 has a slightly lower IR resolution (only the color camera is FullHD) but 1 depth value per pixel.

    Reading glasses hack

    Literary taping +2.5 reading glasses (technically a dioptre[UK]/diopter[EN]) in front of IR-projector and IR-camera seem to reduce the minimum focus distance from 40cm to 35cm. Object appear 1.2x larger. (Based on the report in the thread below)

    Normal Mode:
    +2.0 result in 1/(1.25+2.0)  = 31cm  minimum focus distance, 1/2.0=50m maximum focus distance
    +2.5 result in 1/(1.25+2.5)  = 27cm  minimum focus distance, 1/2.5=40cm maximum focus distance
    +3.0 result in 1/(1.25+3.0)  = 24cm  minimum focus distance, 1/3.0=33cm maximum focus distance

    Near Mode: (Kinect V1 for Windows only)
    +2.0 result in 1/(2.5+2.0)  = 22cm  minimum focus distance, 1/2.0=50m maximum focus distance
    +2.5 result in 1/(2.5+2.5)  = 20cm  minimum focus distance, 1/2.5=40cm maximum focus distance
    +3.0 result in 1/(2.5+3.0)  = 18cm  minimum focus distance, 1/3.0=33cm maximum focus distance

    I know that these also exist in higher quality as "near filters" for macro photography. I even used one of them on the Raspberry Pi camera to make it focus on closer objects to mount it on a Makibox 3D printer.

    Single lens diopters cause color-halos.
    Dual-lens diopters, called achromatic lenses correct these issues. (Obviously made for visible light while we are working in infrared)  There are achromatic lenses for the infrared spectrum.

    You should not use a diopter stronger then 20% of the focal length of your lens.
    The Kinect IR lens has a field of view of 57.8°, putting it in the 40mm ballpark.
    So everything below +4.0 should be fine.

    Links


    Settings for ReconstructMe 

    (I'm using Skanect where I can't use them)


    camera_size_x: 640
    camera_size_y: 480
    camera_fx: 514.16
    camera_fy: 514.16
    camera_px: 320
    camera_py: 240
    camera_near: 100
    camera_far: 2000
    volume_size: 512
    volume_min {
    x: -250
    y: -250
    z: 400
    }
    volume_max {
    x: 250
    y: 250
    z: 900
    }
    integrate_truncation: 10
    integrate_max_weight: 64
    icp_max_iter: 20
    icp_max_dist2: 200
    icp_min_cos_angle: 0.9
    smooth_normals: false
    disable_optimizations: false
    extract_step_fact: 0.5

    2014-10-22

    Geomagic Design - Mesh to Solid suddenly missing


    Update: FOUND IT!  You can scan meshes in the parts and the assembly editor but only in the parts editor are the other tools visible. Very confusing UI inconsistency. There's no reason this wouldn't just create a new solid part in the assembly editor.


    My Geomagic Design suddenly decided to no longer allow me to convert Meshed to Solids.

    That's the sole reason I purchased the last update.
    I had positive email confirmation that the features would be in there (they where not on the website then, only in the promotional video for the new version) and based on that information I shelled out the money for the extended support contract that would give me that update.

    My license states "Geomagic Design".
    (Not "Geomagic Elements")
    The website states that this feature is included in Geomagic Design.
    I still used that feature extensively in May after having extended the support contract in March.
    Now in October this most important feature is suddenly gone.

    2014-10-12

    White Ultimaker II studio case

    Due to my work, I travel A LOT.
    So as with my TravelCNC I'm custom making a studio case to keep my Ultimaker II 3d printer safe.
    Since the Ultimaker has a nice, white case, the studio case is going to white too.

    It will not be sound-proof with Basotect foam but use a hard foam to stand on and keep the Ultimaker II centered and a soft foam for padding.

    Note:
    You REALLY want to use buy a pneumatic rivet gun for this.
    Mounting 150 rivets by hand alone is tiring, very loud and takes weeks.
    ...as opposed to silent operation (except of cause the compressor recharging since cheap rivet guns take a lot of air volume) of a few hours.




    2014-09-18

    SYSCLK DX on MacOS

    I never got my 2 SYSCLK DX - USB oscilloscopes to work with their Windows software. So now I'm trying to buils the unstable version of sigrok pulseview and sigrok-cli on my Mac...

     The stable command line version seems to detect and identify the device but I can't figure out how to tell it what device to use to do any actual stuff. Last step doesn't seem to work.


    bash-3.2# brew install --HEAD pulseview
    ==> Installing pulseview dependency: cmake
    ==> Downloading https://downloads.sf.net/project/machomebrew/Bottles/cmake-3.0.2.mavericks.bottle.tar.gz
    ######################################################################## 100,0%
    ==> Pouring cmake-3.0.2.mavericks.bottle.tar.gz
    🍺  /usr/local/Cellar/cmake/3.0.2: 1641 files, 26M
    ==> Installing pulseview
    ==> Cloning git://sigrok.org/pulseview
    Updating /Library/Caches/Homebrew/pulseview--git
    ==> cmake . -DENABLE_DECODE=y -DCMAKE_INSTALL_PREFIX=/usr/local/Cellar/pulseview/HEAD -DCMAKE_BUILD_TYPE=None -DCMAKE_FIND_FRAMEWORK=LAST -DCMAKE_VERBOSE_MAKEFILE=ON -Wno-dev
    ==> make install
    1 error generated.
    make[2]: *** [CMakeFiles/pulseview.dir/pv/view/viewport.cpp.o] Error 1
    make[2]: *** Waiting for unfinished jobs....
    make[1]: *** [CMakeFiles/pulseview.dir/all] Error 2
    make: *** [all] Error 2
    /usr/local/Library/Homebrew/build.rb:194:in `dump': can't dump anonymous class # (TypeError)
        from /usr/local/Library/Homebrew/build.rb:194:in `rescue in

    '
        from /usr/local/Library/Homebrew/build.rb:179:in `
    '
    Error: marshal data too short
    Please report this bug:
        https://github.com/Homebrew/homebrew/wiki/troubleshooting
    /usr/local/Library/Homebrew/formula_installer.rb:511:in `load'
    /usr/local/Library/Homebrew/formula_installer.rb:511:in `block in build'
    /usr/local/Library/Homebrew/utils.rb:239:in `ignore_interrupts'
    /usr/local/Library/Homebrew/formula_installer.rb:505:in `build'
    /usr/local/Library/Homebrew/formula_installer.rb:181:in `install'
    /usr/local/Library/Homebrew/cmd/install.rb:118:in `install_formula'
    /usr/local/Library/Homebrew/cmd/install.rb:45:in `block in install'
    /usr/local/Library/Homebrew/cmd/install.rb:45:in `each'
    /usr/local/Library/Homebrew/cmd/install.rb:45:in `install'
    /usr/local/Library/brew.rb:131:in `
    '

    2014-08-13

    BMPCC display shade

    I finally got around to design something again.
    It's not perfectly refined yet but doing it's job.

    I have a Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera with the Zacuto Z-Finder.
    But often I don't want to use the Z-finder on my eye, yet I need something to keep the sun out.
    So I designed this parametric display shade to attach to the Zacuto's quick release frame for quick swapping.

    2014-07-23

    Ultimaker II - first impressions

    So I have my Ultimaker II for a day now and these are my impressions so far.

    Reliability

    It is super reliable IF before every print I freshly level the bed, then extrude some filament into thin air using the maintenance->expert->move filament function.
    For that the extruder usually needs a bit of manual push on the filament.
    Maybe it retracted AFTER cooling down too much, maybe it wants to start moving to early, I don't know. It certainly starts up with a bit of grinding every time.

    As for reliable, my first prints where 16 and 15 hours. while I slept and while I was away at work.
    Haven't done that since the RepMan 3.0 days.

    You do hear a little bit of skipping all the time but it does seem to work fine nonetheless.

    Cura

    is easy enough to use, maybe a bit too easy.
    I cannot set the name of the gcode file when using the "export" button (I probably can using the menu).
    I cannot see what the 3 default settings are to just modify one or two parameters (such as infill).

    Build times are very accurate and everything works very well so far.
    The Ultimaker II does display a "time left", something I've never seen before as it requires out of band information from the slicer or a complete simulation of the entire g-code including acceleration and time to change temperatures. However for a 6 hour print it did jump from 6 to 15 hours and then to 5.

    Cura does seem to have an issue in deciding how to support curved surfaces on a 20% infill grid.
    It likes to start and stop flat areas right in the are between infill grids.
    This does work out 2 or 3 layers later.

    Also beware that a "Fast low quality print" will not be water tight in any way.

    What next?

    Next I'll prepare a specially shaped plastic bag to protect the filament mounted on the back from dust to prevent blocked nozzles.
    I couldn't get +-0.05mm filament at the moment, so I ordered some +-0.1mm and will switch in a few weeks.
    I also ordered a custom made stage box to transport the Ultimaker, just like I dd with my TravelCNC.

    2014-07-22

    Ultimaker II

    Shortly after my Kinect II (Skanect doesn't support it yet),
    I received my Ultimaker II.
    It's not a perfect tool but still the most reliable 3D printer I have ever seen!

    Both my Makibox 3D printers (one heavily upgraded, one in stock conditon) are still for sale.
    They work.
    It's just that what I need is a reliable workshop tool and a $300 3D printer just doesn't reach that level.

    Same as for my TravelCNC I ordered a custom made flightcase for it.
    But this time I'll have a pneumatic rivet gun instead of doing this manually. ;)
    I'll also custom make some plastic sheets to protect the mounted filament from any dust.
    My suspicion is that my frequent filament stalls did have something to do with the slightly dusty environment. I vacuumed the filament spool regularly but there would always be some dust on it.



    2014-07-13

    TravelingCNC gets a new spindle

    I tried to replace the fried component in the spindle control but only managed to destroy that board completely.
    Since Carving-CNC didn't answer and I could not find out the technical details to get a compatible board,
    I went the easy way.
    I'm replacing the 230W spindle with a 300W one that is supplied with 48W instead of require a heavy transformer spool.
    Since I already have a heavy 48V supply for the steppers that should reduce the weight considerably.
    For the time being I'll keep a separate supply for the spindle until I'm sure electrical noise is not an issue.

    2014-07-02

    TravelCNC broken

    While installing homing switches on my TravelCNC,
    I replaced the broken component in the spindle driver that only allowed to run at full speed anymore.
    Result is...the spindle controller is now fully broken.

    So currently I'm looking at getting a new 600W spindle+controller from China or to invest a lot and get a spindle with automatic tool changer, controller box and silent, portable 8 bar compressor.
    That would be a huge and great upgrade but I'm reluctant to shell out that kind of money right after ordering an Ultimaker 2 for 2000eur. :/

    2014-06-24

    Makiboxes for sale



    My two Makiboxes are for sale!
    1 Makibox A6 HT with added heat-spreader on stock hotend. top Acrylic broke and some scratches but nothing that affects performance.
    250eur fully assembled including 1 spool of ABS.

    1 Makibox A6 H6 with E3D hotend, Airtripper extruder, Raspberry Pi+Wifi+Camera
    350eur fully assembled including 1 spool of PLA.

    Both sitting in Germany. Can be shipped via DHL or Hermes.

    Anyone interested?  =>  Marcus@Wolschon.biz

    2014-06-20

    My Makibox status

    I have 2 Makiboxes.
    1 stock Makibox A6 HT and
    1 Makibox A6 HT  with an Airtripper V3 BSP extruder and E3D V5 hotend but missing a working mount for the E3D.

    I have given up on the Makibox and am willing to sell both.
    That Makible is in trouble with it's investors doesn't help the case.
    An Ultimaker 2 is already ordered.
    Nonetheless I'm sitting in the GPN Karlsruhe at the moment trying to get both to work reliably.

    I upgraded the stock Makibox to the new firmware v42 with PID autotuning.
    (You use PID autotuning with the M303 command described here.)
    I'm using it to print this E3D v5+LM4UU mount for the other Makibox.



    PID results of stock Makibox:
    < 02:45:13:  Clasic PID --  PID settings:
    < 02:45:13:   M301 P7627 I57 D630
    < 02:45:25: ** PID Autotune Cycle: 5 **
    < 02:45:25:  bias: 39 d: 39 min: 199.00000 max: 201.00000
    < 02:45:25:  Ku: 49.65638 Tu: 12.33100
    < 02:45:25:  Clasic PID --  PID settings:
    < 02:45:25:   M301 P7627 I61 D587
    < 02:45:25: PID Autotune finished !
    < 02:45:25: Place the above command in console to change the PID settings.

    Result: IT WORKS. Pretty rough movement, so low in detail but it works now!
    Printing more replacement parts while it still works.

    2014-05-20

    Experiment failed

    I tried the experimental Makibox hotend upgrade Jaywward made for me.
    Without a fan it didn't work out.
    I'll have to try with a fan next.

    I'm getting more and more frustrated with the shortcommings of the Makibox. :(

    2014-04-22

    Makibox: E3D hotend installed

      The modification

      I gave up waiting for the experimental Makibox hotend upgrade.
      So as planned, I finally got my new E3d hotend.
      Last weekend, during Easterhegg someone 3d printed me a mount for it.
      I pretty much followed these instructions.
      Except that I made a different modification to the Z endstop, that can be seen below.
      I wanted my endstop to be adjustable. (See the photo below)

      Endstops

       If you have the PrintRboard (first generation Makibox machines), you need to swap some cables after the firmware update:

      From the top down the end-stops are:
      * e-stop (move Y endstop cable here on the PrintRboard)
      * z endstop
      * y endstop (remove this cable)
      * x endstop

      Results


      The E3D version 5 bowden 1.75mm hotend works great!
      The Airtripper versioon 3 BSP extruder works great!
      The hotend mounting has about 2mm of play in Y.
      I'll replace it with a modified version that uses LM4UU linear ball bearings as soon as the bearings get here.
      The final line is: I CAN 3D PRINT AGAIN!!!!! :)


      #

      2014-04-15

      Makibox - the next steps

      The default hotend of the Makibox is ...crappy.
      The thermal barrier is not enough to print anything larger then a test-cube in ABS or PLA. Even with no retraction at all, the filament above the heater block expands and stalls even the strongest extruder after 30 inutes of printing. (Using the supplied Makible filament and higher temperature settings. With Makibox-supplied default settings it's much worse.)

      I already have a stronger and spring-loaded extruder and a thinner bowden tube. They help but alone they don't solve the issue. They just postpone the failure.

      I'm currently waiting for a modification from a forum user in the US that adds a cooling block to the existing hotend. The modiciation is as simple as screwing it on and mounting a fan.

      In parallel I already have an E3D hotend version 5.
      During Easterhegg I'll try to find someone to print me a mount (or another mount for LM4UU linear ball bearings) for that and follow the instruction of user my_makibox to install it.
      If not, that mount looks simple enough that maybe I can CNC mill it out of a piece of wood.
      (Having E3D print a mount for me was not avaliable when I ordered my hotend.)
      Not that is does require a firmware update because it has a different thermistor.
      my_makibox supplied a compiled firmware here .

      2014-04-14

      CNC6040 updates

      Just to give everyon an update:
      This weekend I made a few modification to my larger CNC.

      The new E-Stop button got it's cable properly mounted to the wooden case I build.
      Just below the thick glass front.

      Proper sockets for 3 end-stops have been added. The original end-stops I got where too small to fit mechanically but bigger ones where in stock this weekend. They have not been installed yet.
      I'll install them together with bellows to protect the Y axis from dirt and shavings.

      The probe input didn't want to work when using 5V from one of the Enable-outputs of the PLCM-B1 breakout board. I added a separate 5V supply just for the tool height probe and it works now.
      Here is the answer from Purelogic regarding this issue:
        Hello Marcus,

        Thank you very much for your notice.
      You are right that you need another power supply for external sensors.
      PLCM-B1 has too many inputs and we could not place another on-board power supply which could power all inputs. (Of cause we could make it, but will be too expensive and large).
        Small on-board power supply with limited current (for ex. enough for 5 inputs only) can cause more problems because not all users read a manual carefully and they can easily overload this power supply. Nevertheless this way seems most right for me now.

        We will consider your notice in feature. Thank you very much.

      Oleg Gladyshev,
      Purelogic R&D, Russia. 

      The earth cable of the spindle VFD got ripped out. I repaired it and secured it somewhat better.

      The power sockets for all parts of the CNC are now permanently screwed onto the frame and can no longer fall off due to the drag of the heavy cables.

      My cheap MACH3 remote is still acting up. The jog buttons get stuck and the machine just keeps moving.
      I replaced the keyboard with the flaky USB port and the constant USB attach/detach cycles no longer mess up the communication of MACH3 via Ethernet to the PLCM-E3p+B1 boards.


      For the smaller TravelCNC I managed to drill an XL timing belt pulley from 5mm D-shaped to 8mm round shafts. It shall replace the 3D printed one I made a while ago because that one developed some serious backlash after 6 month of usage.

      I will give a small workshop on CNC machining for people who have used only 3D printers during Eaterhegg next weekend.

      2014-03-27

      Accidentally deleted FreeCAD development VM :(

      I just accidentally deleted my FreeCAD development VM. :/
      Now I need to download my empty VM again, checkout my own GitHub repository, add the upstreams of the other developers, the main upstream and then continue developing.

      2014-03-25

      Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 25fps endurance test

      Setup

      25fps, 180° shutter, ISO800
      2x Sandisk Extreme Pro 64GB
      USRobotics dual UHS-1 USB card reader
      iMac
      manual lens, drawing no power for autofocus or optical stabilisation.
      focus peaking ON

      Test 1 raw

        20min 3 seconds of raw footage.

      Test 2 raw

      BMPCC stops at 19min45sec with 48% battery having filled up the 64GB card.
      However it starts blinking a "card full" message after about 15min of recording.
      29649 frames
      Resolve reports just: 19min 45sec
      40minutes to transfer footage to iMac
       => you can't run on 2 cards, dumping one while the other is being recorded to.
      59.538.769.788 Byte (59,59 GB on disk)
      29.649 frames
      3min 33sec to erase all files on the SD-card

      With the remaining 48% battery
      19 minutes 45 seconds (exactly like before down to the second) onto another SD card.
      After 15min 11 seconds the "card full" message starts to blink.
      2% battery left
      transfer to PC: 42min
      59.370.355.068 Byte (59,44 GB on disk)
      29.594 frames
      Resolve reports: 19min 43sec


      With remaining 2% battery left, the camera nearly instantly shuts down in an attempts to record some more.

      Test 3 ProRes

      39min 43 seconds of ProRes before the battery and not the SD-card ran out.
      There was enough space for another 4minutes 52 seconds

      2014-03-23

      CNC6040 upgrade

      I finally found the time to finish the upgrade of my large YOOCNC 6040 from the USB control board (that was already a huge improvement and now works in my smaller TravelCNC) to the russian PLCM-E3 and it's huge breakout board PLCM-B1.

      The 4 existing axis all work fine now, both E-Stops (on control box and on the machine) work as does the tool-height-probe input and I have the ability to upgrade to 5 (and even 6) axis later.
      I actually want to do that when my "SimpleMultiAxisCAM" is finished.

      The dozens of inputs and the 6x 250V 6A relays are not used yet.
      I'll connect the 2 E-Stop buttons and the Probe input later.
      The relays will probably be used to control the water pump for the spindle cooling water and the compressor for my existing mist-cooling for metal working.

      6 axis,
      15 inputs,
      16 outputs,
      6x 250V 6A relays,
      controlled via Ethernet and with proper optocouplers and galvanic isolation.
      I'll not use the PWM feature as my spindle is controlled via RS485.
      28 leds for all axis and inputs can e wired to the front of the enclorure.
      ...what an upgrade.
      BTW: That breakout board is HUGE.

      I also found the reson for the "stuck axis" and the "connection lost" issues.
      The stuck axis seems to be a fault in the chinese MACH3 remote control and the "connection lost" a faulty USB keyboard that detaches and reattaches from USB and messes up the system for half a second each time.






      2014-03-18

      Makibox Hotend and power improvements - Version 2

      This is my second attempt to fix the issues of the Makibox hotend.
      This time In added a number of large and small M4 washers and placed my fan deeper.

      Also: Powering the fan and Raspberry Pi from the same 12V supply seems to cause random crashes of the Makibox firmware. Particularly when it's supposed to start heating the hotend. I have gone back to powering the Raspberry Pi via a second power supply and am observing the situation to confirm this as the cause.
      Result: It still crashes. Something else must be at fault. Searching...



      Results:
      The washers are perfectly cool.
      The PID control has a hard time reaching target-temperature and usually stays 5°C below what the hot-end should be at. I will need to change the PID settings or block air flow from cooling the hot zone instead of just the washers and shaft.
      The bed needed to be leveled again because the length of the hot-end changed a bit.

      The TEST PRINT FAILED AGAIN with the same filament stalls as all the others.
      At the time of failing the washers where perfectly cool.

      Second attempt:
      I changed the target temperature to 218°C.
      This is a temperature that worked well before and has less mechanical resistance because of lower viscosity.

      FAILED


      Third attempt:
      I changed the target temperature to 190°C.

      FAILED

      2014-03-17

      Makibox Hotend and power improvements

      After switching to the AirTripper V3 BSP extruder, I wanted to improve the hotend to finally get reliable printing...

      But the first thing that happened was, that the BSP connector of my extruder ...fell out.
      I did add a small heat sink and a 12V fan to the top of the hotend.
      Since I cannot prevent heat from creeping up from the hot zone to the parts of the hotend that are supposed to stay cool. the intention is to cool the upper parts and dissipate as much of that heat as possible.


      While connecting the 12V for the fan, I also connected power for the camera-equipped Raspberry Pi that lives inside the Makibox.
      Beware that you need a gas powered or very strong electric soldering iron to solder anything to this PCB. It dissipates all the heat you put into it before the solder has any chance to melt.



      test:
      I'm currently testing the setup.
      The hotend is staying at 235°C for an hour and I'm touching the upper part to feel for any warmth every now and then.
      I already know that the "L" shaped heat spreader does get warm to the touch during long running print jobs before friction due to expanding filament above the hot zone ruins the print as even the strongest extruder cannot push hard enough to overcome this.
      results:
      The "L" shape stays cool while the threaded part and the M4 nut at the top of the threaded part of the Makibox hotend is too hot to touch.
      The TEST PRINT FAILED AGAIN with the same filament stalls as all the others.
      Either this isn't the issue at all or I need a way to cool the threaded filament tube above the hot zone.


      >>> Part II

      2014-03-16

      Weekend update

      Just a quick update on what happened recently.

      large CNC:
      I'm still waiting for my PLCM-B1 Breakout-Board to fix some electrical noise issues due to not having opto-couplers at the moment.

      TravelCNC:
      I'm bringing some wires and small parts to change the wiring to use new stepper drivers.
      The original, chinese ones where rated far above what they could survive. (advertised as 50V, used at 48V, rated at 45V absolute maximum)

      Blackmagic Pocket camera:
      I got my Pocket Speed  Booster (0.58x, +1,33 stops) and 50mm f1.4 as well as 30mm f1.4 lenses.
      I did find a used Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM but it was no longer for sale a day after.
      I'll soon make a comparison of
      50mm f1.4 +SB
      30mm f1.4 + SB
      25mm f0.95 Voightländer
      17.5mm f0.95 Voightländer
      25mm f1.4 Leica
      12-35 f2.8 Panasonic
      CCTV f1.4 C-mount lenses for 2/3" sensors

      4 axis CAM for FreeCAD:
      I'm stuck. My plugin compiles but there's no .so file being generated.
      Aparently I don't understand enough about cmake.

      Makibox A6 HT:
      I'm bringing some parts to add a passiv cooler and a cooling fan to the cool part of the hotend.
      After exchanging the extruder this seems to be the root cause.

      2014-03-03

      Using an AirTripper extruder on the Makibox A6

         Because of frequent filament stalls on my Makibox A6 HT, I'm currently upgrading to a different hotend that (hopefully) can transfer more force onto the filament. That should allow it to overcome added resistance in the hotend due to heating and thus expanding filament. That in turn would make the printer more reliable.
         
        Problem 1
        The stock drive gear is 9.5mm away from where the filament would be with the Aitripper V3.
      Solution: Get an MK7 Drive Gear Pulley (for 1.75mm filament).
      It came out the best for this purpose in a nice test.
      Don't install the MK7 just yet! Read to the end first!



        Problem 2 
        The BSP Air Tripper has a thinner bowden tube.
      Solution: Cut an M4 thread into the end of the tube, place an M4 nut on it.
      Now it will be compatible with the Makibox hot-end.

         

        Problem 3

        The shaft is too short to hold the MK7 drive gear in reverse.
        Also the hole in the MK7 is tappered, so you cannot even insert the shaft into the other end and need excessive force to push it on the right way.

      Obviously spacers of 4.5mm for the stepper motor are needed.
      You need to print this space before installing the MK7 because you can't get it off anymore.
      You need an allen key of 1.4mm diameter for the grub screw.
      Also the long screws need to be 11mm longer (6mm for the acrylic, 5mm for the spacers).
      Thus M3x41mm or M3 threaded rod is needed.

      Solution: M3 threaded rod, 4x2 M3 nuts as spacer, 4x M3 nut for mounting


      Problem 4
      Let's mount everything up!
      The Makibox has only 3 mounting holes.
      The Airtripper only needs 3 bolts.
      ...different 3 bolts then the ones we have holes for.
      Solution: an M4 nut can mount your extruder on top of the Makibox through one of the air cooling slits.

      Problem 5
      So let's do a dry-run first!
      You can't push the filament through.
      The exit-hole and the center of the BSP connector are not aligned and the filament hits the wal of it's hole with no way of manual intervention. Force can't overcome this issue.

      The photo shows the abolute maximum how far you can insert the filament.
      Solution: none yet. You may get it to push through with excessive force and trying serveral dozen times.


      Note 6

      The new drive gear is larger.  You need to multiply a factor of 0.57 to the amount of filament to transport in your slicer settings.