SYSCLK DX on MacOS

I never got my 2 SYSCLK DX - USB oscilloscopes to work with their Windows software. So now I'm trying to buils the unstable version of sigrok pulseview and sigrok-cli on my Mac...

 The stable command line version seems to detect and identify the device but I can't figure out how to tell it what device to use to do any actual stuff. Last step doesn't seem to work.


bash-3.2# brew install --HEAD pulseview
==> Installing pulseview dependency: cmake
==> Downloading https://downloads.sf.net/project/machomebrew/Bottles/cmake-3.0.2.mavericks.bottle.tar.gz
######################################################################## 100,0%
==> Pouring cmake-3.0.2.mavericks.bottle.tar.gz
🍺  /usr/local/Cellar/cmake/3.0.2: 1641 files, 26M
==> Installing pulseview
==> Cloning git://sigrok.org/pulseview
Updating /Library/Caches/Homebrew/pulseview--git
==> cmake . -DENABLE_DECODE=y -DCMAKE_INSTALL_PREFIX=/usr/local/Cellar/pulseview/HEAD -DCMAKE_BUILD_TYPE=None -DCMAKE_FIND_FRAMEWORK=LAST -DCMAKE_VERBOSE_MAKEFILE=ON -Wno-dev
==> make install
1 error generated.
make[2]: *** [CMakeFiles/pulseview.dir/pv/view/viewport.cpp.o] Error 1
make[2]: *** Waiting for unfinished jobs....
make[1]: *** [CMakeFiles/pulseview.dir/all] Error 2
make: *** [all] Error 2
/usr/local/Library/Homebrew/build.rb:194:in `dump': can't dump anonymous class # (TypeError)
    from /usr/local/Library/Homebrew/build.rb:194:in `rescue in

'
    from /usr/local/Library/Homebrew/build.rb:179:in `

'
Error: marshal data too short
Please report this bug:
    https://github.com/Homebrew/homebrew/wiki/troubleshooting
/usr/local/Library/Homebrew/formula_installer.rb:511:in `load'
/usr/local/Library/Homebrew/formula_installer.rb:511:in `block in build'
/usr/local/Library/Homebrew/utils.rb:239:in `ignore_interrupts'
/usr/local/Library/Homebrew/formula_installer.rb:505:in `build'
/usr/local/Library/Homebrew/formula_installer.rb:181:in `install'
/usr/local/Library/Homebrew/cmd/install.rb:118:in `install_formula'
/usr/local/Library/Homebrew/cmd/install.rb:45:in `block in install'
/usr/local/Library/Homebrew/cmd/install.rb:45:in `each'
/usr/local/Library/Homebrew/cmd/install.rb:45:in `install'
/usr/local/Library/brew.rb:131:in `

'

BMPCC display shade

I finally got around to design something again.
It's not perfectly refined yet but doing it's job.

I have a Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera with the Zacuto Z-Finder.
But often I don't want to use the Z-finder on my eye, yet I need something to keep the sun out.
So I designed this parametric display shade to attach to the Zacuto's quick release frame for quick swapping.

Ultimaker II - first impressions

So I have my Ultimaker II for a day now and these are my impressions so far.

Reliability

It is super reliable IF before every print I freshly level the bed, then extrude some filament into thin air using the maintenance->expert->move filament function.
For that the extruder usually needs a bit of manual push on the filament.
Maybe it retracted AFTER cooling down too much, maybe it wants to start moving to early, I don't know. It certainly starts up with a bit of grinding every time.

As for reliable, my first prints where 16 and 15 hours. while I slept and while I was away at work.
Haven't done that since the RepMan 3.0 days.

You do hear a little bit of skipping all the time but it does seem to work fine nonetheless.

Cura

is easy enough to use, maybe a bit too easy.
I cannot set the name of the gcode file when using the "export" button (I probably can using the menu).
I cannot see what the 3 default settings are to just modify one or two parameters (such as infill).

Build times are very accurate and everything works very well so far.
The Ultimaker II does display a "time left", something I've never seen before as it requires out of band information from the slicer or a complete simulation of the entire g-code including acceleration and time to change temperatures. However for a 6 hour print it did jump from 6 to 15 hours and then to 5.

Cura does seem to have an issue in deciding how to support curved surfaces on a 20% infill grid.
It likes to start and stop flat areas right in the are between infill grids.
This does work out 2 or 3 layers later.

Also beware that a "Fast low quality print" will not be water tight in any way.

What next?

Next I'll prepare a specially shaped plastic bag to protect the filament mounted on the back from dust to prevent blocked nozzles.
I couldn't get +-0.05mm filament at the moment, so I ordered some +-0.1mm and will switch in a few weeks.
I also ordered a custom made stage box to transport the Ultimaker, just like I dd with my TravelCNC.

Ultimaker II

Shortly after my Kinect II (Skanect doesn't support it yet),
I received my Ultimaker II.
It's not a perfect tool but still the most reliable 3D printer I have ever seen!

Both my Makibox 3D printers (one heavily upgraded, one in stock conditon) are still for sale.
They work.
It's just that what I need is a reliable workshop tool and a $300 3D printer just doesn't reach that level.

Same as for my TravelCNC I ordered a custom made flightcase for it.
But this time I'll have a pneumatic rivet gun instead of doing this manually. ;)
I'll also custom make some plastic sheets to protect the mounted filament from any dust.
My suspicion is that my frequent filament stalls did have something to do with the slightly dusty environment. I vacuumed the filament spool regularly but there would always be some dust on it.

TravelingCNC gets a new spindle

I tried to replace the fried component in the spindle control but only managed to destroy that board completely.
Since Carving-CNC didn't answer and I could not find out the technical details to get a compatible board,
I went the easy way.
I'm replacing the 230W spindle with a 300W one that is supplied with 48W instead of require a heavy transformer spool.
Since I already have a heavy 48V supply for the steppers that should reduce the weight considerably.
For the time being I'll keep a separate supply for the spindle until I'm sure electrical noise is not an issue.

TravelCNC broken

While installing homing switches on my TravelCNC,
I replaced the broken component in the spindle driver that only allowed to run at full speed anymore.
Result is...the spindle controller is now fully broken.

So currently I'm looking at getting a new 600W spindle+controller from China or to invest a lot and get a spindle with automatic tool changer, controller box and silent, portable 8 bar compressor.
That would be a huge and great upgrade but I'm reluctant to shell out that kind of money right after ordering an Ultimaker 2 for 2000eur. :/

Makiboxes for sale

My two Makiboxes are for sale!
1 Makibox A6 HT with added heat-spreader on stock hotend. top Acrylic broke and some scratches but nothing that affects performance.
250eur fully assembled including 1 spool of ABS.

1 Makibox A6 H6 with E3D hotend, Airtripper extruder, Raspberry Pi+Wifi+Camera
350eur fully assembled including 1 spool of PLA.

Both sitting in Germany. Can be shipped via DHL or Hermes.

Anyone interested?  =>  Marcus@Wolschon.biz

My Makibox status

I have 2 Makiboxes.
1 stock Makibox A6 HT and
1 Makibox A6 HT  with an Airtripper V3 BSP extruder and E3D V5 hotend but missing a working mount for the E3D.

I have given up on the Makibox and am willing to sell both.
That Makible is in trouble with it's investors doesn't help the case.
An Ultimaker 2 is already ordered.
Nonetheless I'm sitting in the GPN Karlsruhe at the moment trying to get both to work reliably.

I upgraded the stock Makibox to the new firmware v42 with PID autotuning.
(You use PID autotuning with the M303 command described here.)
I'm using it to print this E3D v5+LM4UU mount for the other Makibox.



PID results of stock Makibox:
< 02:45:13:  Clasic PID --  PID settings:
< 02:45:13:   M301 P7627 I57 D630
< 02:45:25: ** PID Autotune Cycle: 5 **
< 02:45:25:  bias: 39 d: 39 min: 199.00000 max: 201.00000
< 02:45:25:  Ku: 49.65638 Tu: 12.33100
< 02:45:25:  Clasic PID --  PID settings:
< 02:45:25:   M301 P7627 I61 D587
< 02:45:25: PID Autotune finished !
< 02:45:25: Place the above command in console to change the PID settings.

Result: IT WORKS. Pretty rough movement, so low in detail but it works now!
Printing more replacement parts while it still works.

Experiment failed

I tried the experimental Makibox hotend upgrade Jaywward made for me.
Without a fan it didn't work out.
I'll have to try with a fan next.

I'm getting more and more frustrated with the shortcommings of the Makibox. :(

Makibox: E3D hotend installed

The modification

I gave up waiting for the experimental Makibox hotend upgrade.
So as planned, I finally got my new E3d hotend.
Last weekend, during Easterhegg someone 3d printed me a mount for it.
I pretty much followed these instructions.
Except that I made a different modification to the Z endstop, that can be seen below.
I wanted my endstop to be adjustable. (See the photo below)

Endstops

 If you have the PrintRboard (first generation Makibox machines), you need to swap some cables after the firmware update:

From the top down the end-stops are:
* e-stop (move Y endstop cable here on the PrintRboard)
* z endstop
* y endstop (remove this cable)
* x endstop

Results

The E3D version 5 bowden 1.75mm hotend works great!
The Airtripper versioon 3 BSP extruder works great!
The hotend mounting has about 2mm of play in Y.
I'll replace it with a modified version that uses LM4UU linear ball bearings as soon as the bearings get here.
The final line is: I CAN 3D PRINT AGAIN!!!!! :)

#

Makibox - the next steps

The default hotend of the Makibox is ...crappy.
The thermal barrier is not enough to print anything larger then a test-cube in ABS or PLA. Even with no retraction at all, the filament above the heater block expands and stalls even the strongest extruder after 30 inutes of printing. (Using the supplied Makible filament and higher temperature settings. With Makibox-supplied default settings it's much worse.)

I already have a stronger and spring-loaded extruder and a thinner bowden tube. They help but alone they don't solve the issue. They just postpone the failure.

I'm currently waiting for a modification from a forum user in the US that adds a cooling block to the existing hotend. The modiciation is as simple as screwing it on and mounting a fan.

In parallel I already have an E3D hotend version 5.
During Easterhegg I'll try to find someone to print me a mount (or another mount for LM4UU linear ball bearings) for that and follow the instruction of user my_makibox to install it.
If not, that mount looks simple enough that maybe I can CNC mill it out of a piece of wood.
(Having E3D print a mount for me was not avaliable when I ordered my hotend.)
Not that is does require a firmware update because it has a different thermistor.
my_makibox supplied a compiled firmware here .

CNC6040 updates

Just to give everyon an update:
This weekend I made a few modification to my larger CNC.

The new E-Stop button got it's cable properly mounted to the wooden case I build.
Just below the thick glass front.

Proper sockets for 3 end-stops have been added. The original end-stops I got where too small to fit mechanically but bigger ones where in stock this weekend. They have not been installed yet.
I'll install them together with bellows to protect the Y axis from dirt and shavings.

The probe input didn't want to work when using 5V from one of the Enable-outputs of the PLCM-B1 breakout board. I added a separate 5V supply just for the tool height probe and it works now.
Here is the answer from Purelogic regarding this issue:

  Hello Marcus,

  Thank you very much for your notice.
You are right that you need another power supply for external sensors.
PLCM-B1 has too many inputs and we could not place another on-board power supply which could power all inputs. (Of cause we could make it, but will be too expensive and large).
  Small on-board power supply with limited current (for ex. enough for 5 inputs only) can cause more problems because not all users read a manual carefully and they can easily overload this power supply. Nevertheless this way seems most right for me now.

  We will consider your notice in feature. Thank you very much.

Oleg Gladyshev,
Purelogic R&D, Russia. 

The earth cable of the spindle VFD got ripped out. I repaired it and secured it somewhat better.

The power sockets for all parts of the CNC are now permanently screwed onto the frame and can no longer fall off due to the drag of the heavy cables.

My cheap MACH3 remote is still acting up. The jog buttons get stuck and the machine just keeps moving.
I replaced the keyboard with the flaky USB port and the constant USB attach/detach cycles no longer mess up the communication of MACH3 via Ethernet to the PLCM-E3p+B1 boards.


For the smaller TravelCNC I managed to drill an XL timing belt pulley from 5mm D-shaped to 8mm round shafts. It shall replace the 3D printed one I made a while ago because that one developed some serious backlash after 6 month of usage.

I will give a small workshop on CNC machining for people who have used only 3D printers during Eaterhegg next weekend.

Accidentally deleted FreeCAD development VM :(

I just accidentally deleted my FreeCAD development VM. :/
Now I need to download my empty VM again, checkout my own GitHub repository, add the upstreams of the other developers, the main upstream and then continue developing.

Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 25fps endurance test

Setup

25fps, 180° shutter, ISO800
2x Sandisk Extreme Pro 64GB
USRobotics dual UHS-1 USB card reader
iMac
manual lens, drawing no power for autofocus or optical stabilisation.
focus peaking ON

Test 1 raw

  20min 3 seconds of raw footage.

Test 2 raw

BMPCC stops at 19min45sec with 48% battery having filled up the 64GB card.
However it starts blinking a "card full" message after about 15min of recording.
29649 frames
Resolve reports just: 19min 45sec
40minutes to transfer footage to iMac
 => you can't run on 2 cards, dumping one while the other is being recorded to.
59.538.769.788 Byte (59,59 GB on disk)
29.649 frames
3min 33sec to erase all files on the SD-card

With the remaining 48% battery
19 minutes 45 seconds (exactly like before down to the second) onto another SD card.
After 15min 11 seconds the "card full" message starts to blink.
2% battery left
transfer to PC: 42min
59.370.355.068 Byte (59,44 GB on disk)
29.594 frames
Resolve reports: 19min 43sec


With remaining 2% battery left, the camera nearly instantly shuts down in an attempts to record some more.

Test 3 ProRes

39min 43 seconds of ProRes before the battery and not the SD-card ran out.
There was enough space for another 4minutes 52 seconds

CNC6040 upgrade

I finally found the time to finish the upgrade of my large YOOCNC 6040 from the USB control board (that was already a huge improvement and now works in my smaller TravelCNC) to the russian PLCM-E3 and it's huge breakout board PLCM-B1.

The 4 existing axis all work fine now, both E-Stops (on control box and on the machine) work as does the tool-height-probe input and I have the ability to upgrade to 5 (and even 6) axis later.
I actually want to do that when my "SimpleMultiAxisCAM" is finished.

The dozens of inputs and the 6x 250V 6A relays are not used yet.
I'll connect the 2 E-Stop buttons and the Probe input later.
The relays will probably be used to control the water pump for the spindle cooling water and the compressor for my existing mist-cooling for metal working.

6 axis,
15 inputs,
16 outputs,
6x 250V 6A relays,
controlled via Ethernet and with proper optocouplers and galvanic isolation.
I'll not use the PWM feature as my spindle is controlled via RS485.
28 leds for all axis and inputs can e wired to the front of the enclorure.
...what an upgrade.
BTW: That breakout board is HUGE.

I also found the reson for the "stuck axis" and the "connection lost" issues.
The stuck axis seems to be a fault in the chinese MACH3 remote control and the "connection lost" a faulty USB keyboard that detaches and reattaches from USB and messes up the system for half a second each time.

Makibox Hotend and power improvements - Version 2

This is my second attempt to fix the issues of the Makibox hotend.
This time In added a number of large and small M4 washers and placed my fan deeper.

Also: Powering the fan and Raspberry Pi from the same 12V supply seems to cause random crashes of the Makibox firmware. Particularly when it's supposed to start heating the hotend. I have gone back to powering the Raspberry Pi via a second power supply and am observing the situation to confirm this as the cause.
Result: It still crashes. Something else must be at fault. Searching...

Results:
The washers are perfectly cool.
The PID control has a hard time reaching target-temperature and usually stays 5°C below what the hot-end should be at. I will need to change the PID settings or block air flow from cooling the hot zone instead of just the washers and shaft.
The bed needed to be leveled again because the length of the hot-end changed a bit.

The TEST PRINT FAILED AGAIN with the same filament stalls as all the others.
At the time of failing the washers where perfectly cool.

Second attempt:
I changed the target temperature to 218°C.
This is a temperature that worked well before and has less mechanical resistance because of lower viscosity.

FAILED


Third attempt:
I changed the target temperature to 190°C.

FAILED

Makibox Hotend and power improvements

After switching to the AirTripper V3 BSP extruder, I wanted to improve the hotend to finally get reliable printing...

But the first thing that happened was, that the BSP connector of my extruder ...fell out.
I did add a small heat sink and a 12V fan to the top of the hotend.
Since I cannot prevent heat from creeping up from the hot zone to the parts of the hotend that are supposed to stay cool. the intention is to cool the upper parts and dissipate as much of that heat as possible.

While connecting the 12V for the fan, I also connected power for the camera-equipped Raspberry Pi that lives inside the Makibox.
Beware that you need a gas powered or very strong electric soldering iron to solder anything to this PCB. It dissipates all the heat you put into it before the solder has any chance to melt.

test:
I'm currently testing the setup.
The hotend is staying at 235°C for an hour and I'm touching the upper part to feel for any warmth every now and then.
I already know that the "L" shaped heat spreader does get warm to the touch during long running print jobs before friction due to expanding filament above the hot zone ruins the print as even the strongest extruder cannot push hard enough to overcome this.
results:
The "L" shape stays cool while the threaded part and the M4 nut at the top of the threaded part of the Makibox hotend is too hot to touch.
The TEST PRINT FAILED AGAIN with the same filament stalls as all the others.
Either this isn't the issue at all or I need a way to cool the threaded filament tube above the hot zone.


>>> Part II

Weekend update

Just a quick update on what happened recently.

large CNC:
I'm still waiting for my PLCM-B1 Breakout-Board to fix some electrical noise issues due to not having opto-couplers at the moment.

TravelCNC:
I'm bringing some wires and small parts to change the wiring to use new stepper drivers.
The original, chinese ones where rated far above what they could survive. (advertised as 50V, used at 48V, rated at 45V absolute maximum)

Blackmagic Pocket camera:
I got my Pocket Speed  Booster (0.58x, +1,33 stops) and 50mm f1.4 as well as 30mm f1.4 lenses.
I did find a used Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM but it was no longer for sale a day after.
I'll soon make a comparison of
50mm f1.4 +SB
30mm f1.4 + SB
25mm f0.95 Voightländer
17.5mm f0.95 Voightländer
25mm f1.4 Leica
12-35 f2.8 Panasonic
CCTV f1.4 C-mount lenses for 2/3" sensors

4 axis CAM for FreeCAD:
I'm stuck. My plugin compiles but there's no .so file being generated.
Aparently I don't understand enough about cmake.

Makibox A6 HT:
I'm bringing some parts to add a passiv cooler and a cooling fan to the cool part of the hotend.
After exchanging the extruder this seems to be the root cause.

Using an AirTripper extruder on the Makibox A6

 Because of frequent filament stalls on my Makibox A6 HT, I'm currently upgrading to a different hotend that (hopefully) can transfer more force onto the filament. That should allow it to overcome added resistance in the hotend due to heating and thus expanding filament. That in turn would make the printer more reliable.

The extruder I set my eyes on the is the Airtripper V3 BSP. 

 

Problem 1

The stock drive gear is 9.5mm away from where the filament would be with the Aitripper V3.

Solution: Get an MK7 Drive Gear Pulley (for 1.75mm filament).
It came out the best for this purpose in a nice test.
Don't install the MK7 just yet! Read to the end first!

Problem 2 

The BSP Air Tripper has a thinner bowden tube.

Solution: Cut an M4 thread into the end of the tube, place an M4 nut on it.
Now it will be compatible with the Makibox hot-end.

 

Problem 3


The shaft is too short to hold the MK7 drive gear in reverse.
Also the hole in the MK7 is tappered, so you cannot even insert the shaft into the other end and need excessive force to push it on the right way.

Obviously spacers of 4.5mm for the stepper motor are needed.
You need to print this space before installing the MK7 because you can't get it off anymore.
You need an allen key of 1.4mm diameter for the grub screw.
Also the long screws need to be 11mm longer (6mm for the acrylic, 5mm for the spacers).
Thus M3x41mm or M3 threaded rod is needed.

Solution: M3 threaded rod, 4x2 M3 nuts as spacer, 4x M3 nut for mounting

Problem 4

Let's mount everything up!
The Makibox has only 3 mounting holes.
The Airtripper only needs 3 bolts.
...different 3 bolts then the ones we have holes for.

Solution: an M4 nut can mount your extruder on top of the Makibox through one of the air cooling slits.

Problem 5

So let's do a dry-run first!
You can't push the filament through.
The exit-hole and the center of the BSP connector are not aligned and the filament hits the wal of it's hole with no way of manual intervention. Force can't overcome this issue.

The photo shows the abolute maximum how far you can insert the filament.
Solution: none yet. You may get it to push through with excessive force and trying serveral dozen times.

Note 6

The new drive gear is larger.  You need to multiply a factor of 0.57 to the amount of filament to transport in your slicer settings.

• Google+ posting
• Makibox forum posting

3d printable quick relase - spring loaded

It's done!
I managed to design a quick release adapter.
It uses a cloth peg spring for the arm and has a second spring (from ballpoint pens) to keep the arm open until you push down with your camera to lock it in place without touching the lever.