Tales of a modern life

2016-06-27

Getting started with the Raspberry Pi 3 OctoPrint Bundle

After upgrading to the low friction spool holder,
I just got myself the Raspberry Pi 3 OctoPrint Bundle from Watterott.
It shall be the center component of my Ultimate Filament sensor.

Since it doesn't come with any instructions, here is what you need to do:

Setup

Don't plug it in yet!
Insert the SD card into a regular computer and edit the file octopi-network.txt .

Then insert the 2 transparent elements into the 2 holes near the micro USB socket.
(Yes, there are 2 plugs for 4 holes and no instructions.)

Now insert the Raspberry Pi and then insert the SD card.
The contacts should face upwards.
(It is near impossible to the the cards out again.)

After switching it on, you can connect to it via http://octopi.local .

SSH

You can also access the raspberry via SSH

ssh pi@octopi.local

The default password is "raspberry.
The SD card is mounted as /boot
The OctoPrint config file is at "/home/pi/.octoprint/config.yaml"
You can restart the server via "sudo /etc/init.d/octoprint restart"

If your Wifi access point via

sudo sudo iwlist wlan0 scanning | grep ESSID

can't be seen by Linux, run

sudo raspi-config

and select "5 internationalization options" -> "I4 select Wifi locale"
to enable the Raspberry to see all Wifi channels that are legal in your country.

The Raspian I got was very old. I had to provide Internet via Ethernet and do

sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get dist-upgrade

then it was able to see Wifi networks on Channel 40 (5GHz) and 12+13 (2.4GHz).

GPIO fun

While at the shell, you can have fun with the GPIO pins in Bash.
Sadly you can't set the pull-up resistors from the shell.
However my image came with WiringPi already installed.
It doesn't have a "--help" or a man page on the Pi itself, so here are the basics:

gpio readall
gpio mode (pin) in/out
gpio mode (pin) up/down/tri (set pull up resistors)
gpio read (pin)
gpio write (pin) 0/1
gpio wfi (pin) rising/falling/both (non-busy waiting for a state change)
(more)
(reading multiple gpios )
...including timeout via read -t (seconds) || echo "timeout detected" ...still in bash ;)

Camera

Sorry, there is no hole for the Raspberry Pi camera. The best place to cut one is probably on the side (so you don't damage the cool logo), above the camera connector.

This longer cable (Reichelt) may be helpful.

Cura slicing

Luckily the Bundle comes with thje CuraEngine plugin preinstalled. So slicing it not much of a problem.You can imort your existing 15.x profiles (but not 2.1.1 profiles) in Settings->Plugins->CuraEngine->import profile.

BTW, there are "send to Octoprint" plugins for Cura on the desktop!

Ultimaker II setup

The Ultimaker series is not supported out of the box.

Settings->printer profile:

Profile (UM2 extended)

Color: default
(X) Rectangular
Origin: lower left
X: 223mm
Y: 223mm
Z: 315mm
(X) heated bed

Profile (UM2 go)

Color: default
(X) Rectangular
Origin: lower left
X: 120mm
Y: 120mm
Z: 115mm
(X) heated bed

Profile (UM2)

Color: default
(X) Rectangular
Origin: lower left
X: 223mm
Y: 223mm
Z: 205mm
(X) heated bed

G-Code

After "after abort of a print job" enter:

;fans off
M107
;extruder heater off
M104 S0
;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
M140 S0
;metric values
G21
;absolute positioning
G90
;move Z and X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 X0 Y0
;relative positioning
G91
;retract the filament
G1 E-5 F300
;steppers off
M84
;absolute positioning
G90

Cura 15

in Cura set: GCode Type = RepRap (Marlin/Sprinter)
start.gcode (first line must be blank)

;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
;Print time: {print_time}
;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G0 X20 Y20 F{travel_speed} ;bring extruder to the front
G1 Z25.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 25mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E25 ;extrude 25mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{travel_speed}
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...

end.gcode (first line must be blank)

;End GCode
M107 ;fans off
M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
G28 Z0 X0 Y0 ;move Z and X/Y to min endstops
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-15 F300 ;retract the filament
M84 ;steppers off
G90 ;absolute positioning
;{profile_string}

Cura 2.1

The documentation should be here However that's not the whole picture incomplete.
You need an Ultimaker2extended, Ultimaker2Go or Ultimaker2 profile with the reprap g-code flavor to have start and end added to your gcode files including material temperatures, homing and shutdown. Like this one.
To avoid adding files to Cura itself (and keeping them after updating Cura),
you can put your .json files for a new machine definition here:

Cura 2.1 (Linux) ~/.local/share/cura/machines
Cura 2.2 (Linux) ~/.local/share/cura/definitions
Cura 2.1 (OSX) ~/.cura/machines for 2.1 or ~/Library/Application Support/cura/definitions
Cura 2.1 (Windows) ~/AppData/Local/cura/machines
Cura 2.2 (Windows) ~/AppData/Local/cura/definitions for 2.2

Due to bug #850, you need to copy the fdmprinter.json, Ultimaker2.json and other files you inherit from into the same directory.

You can also add additional materials (use the existing materials in Cura 2.1.2.app/Contents/Resources/cura/resources/profiles/materials as a reference) to
~/.cura/profiles/materials (OSX)
but be careful, the file structure is identical to the MATERIALS.txt that the firmware imports from an SD card but the property and section names inside are different. Strange design decision.

Ultimaker II attachment

mechanical

It looks like self adhesive Velcro is the best option to attach the box to the back of your Ultimaker II.

Electrical

Having a Raspberry Pi permanently connected to your printer, that has ample 5V and 12V, it is kind of silly to power it via a separate wall wart. So we should see about powering it from the Ultimaker.

Settings

g-code for "after pause"

G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-25 F200 ;retract the filament before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z20 F15000 ;move the platform down 20mm
G90 ;absolute positioning
G0 X20 Y20 ;bring extruder to the front

g-code for "resume after pause":

G91 ;relative positioning
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E55 ;extrude 55mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 Z-20 F15000 ;move the platform up 20mm again
G90 ;back to absolute positioning
G1 F600 ; set travel speed

2016-06-20

Ultimaker II upgrade with Low Friction Spool-Holder

I'm currently upgrading my Ultimaker II with a "Low friction UM2 spoolholder" the YouMagine user IRobertI.

As I print a lot, I use huge and heavy Colorfabb 2.2Kg spools.
So when a spool is fresh and heavy, there is a lot of friction involved that the extruder needs to overcome.
My hope is to reduce this friction a great deal with this simple upgrade.

Notes:

Print "608 mount" ith lots of infill, a large nozzle and thick layers. It needs to be strong.
M8x140 is plenty of length. It should have a hex head, so you only need 2 M8 nuts
You can use counter nuts (4 in total), so the nuts stay in place even with lots of vibration over a long time period
Use a bolt that has threads all the way (no smooth shaf and only threads at the tip)
Clean up the inside of "608 Core2 90mm" and "core 1", so a 608 bearing can be inserted into the far end
check the order of assembly:

insert M8x100 hex headed bolt into "608 mount
add M8 nut and 608 (skateboard) bearing, so "core 1" has a small air-gap wi "608 mount"
add "core 1"
add spacer
add another 608 bearing and M8 nut (don't overrighten)
add "608 Core2 90mm"
add final "608 nut"

2016-06-18

Panasonic YAGH for GH4 disassembly

Project

I received a broken Panasonic YAGH unit for a GH4/GH4R camera.
The description was that it simply failed at some point and was dead. The original owner has a second YAGH in operation, so I'm ruling out handling error.

Since the Audio part also did not work, I can rule out any ground loop or static electricity issue with the SDI ports as the cause.
If the SDI ports are broken, I'm still left with a good XLR audio preamp for my GH4. ;)

My educated guess is a burned protection diode/0 Ohm resistor/fuse in the power supply due to a power spike or ground loop.

Disassembly

This unit is all nuts and bolts.
Don't start this disassembly unless you have

a LOT of table space to lay out the bolts
a means to print photos you made of each board/side/layer to put the bolts on
I learned the hard way that putting the unit onto a photocopier does NOT produce good results

You have to remove all visible screws on all sides to remove the outher plastic hull.
Use the photos I made to get a good understanding of how the different parts inside connect to disassemble them later.
You can have to disconnect the board with the 2 XLR audio connectors to physically separate "Main" and "Power" board.
You have to disconnect the front panel "SW-Audio" board from the "Main" board to to physically separate the elements
You have to remove the lower board "Main" with the SDI connectors to remove the plastic on top of the "Power" board.

Aparently you can reconnect things in a way to run the YAGH without any case and easily reachable contacts. Just the upper side of "Main" and lower side of "POWER" are blocked because they mate to each other.

What surprised me was, that the unit actually contains an micro-HDMI to HDMI cable and a full sized HDMI socket inside!
My guess is that this is to easily replace a broken cable but then again...you need to completely disasembly EVERYTHING to reach that cable.

Power supply

The unit accepts XLR power with

12V applied on Pin 4 and
GND on pin 1.
Pin 2+3 are not connected
Rated for 11-17V (1.4A at 12V) -> 16.8V D-Tap power is fine but very near the top limit

Setup: I'm testing the unit with a DTap to XLR power adapter cable.
I could also use a lab power supply but attaching it would be difficult as the cables are very well insulated and leave no place where I could attach clamps.

Lessons learned: aparently you CAN insert a chinese D-Tap plug THE WRONG WAY without any resistance.

Found the problem? The Power board is not supplying power to any of the other board. The fuses are intact and there are no obviously burned capacitors or diodes that I could easily replace.

SDI out

1080p24/25/30 -> the same 1.5G SDI signal on all 4 outputs
1080p50/60 -> the same 3G SDI signal on output 1 and 2
UHD at 24/2530fps or DCI 4K at 24fps ->4 FullHD segments as 1.5G SDI signals on each port

Conclusion: I can test the SDI ports using my Atomos Samurai Blade or shogun that both only have a single SDI input.

Audio board

XLR inputs arrive in a small board "CJBB84417" with only passive componente.
They are then routed into the board "VJBB0F44" with 4 low noise amplifiers labeled "8202 304 JRC".
It also houses the Pogo pins to the large connector on the camera and a large connector to the main board.
Guesses:
My guess is, that this does all the audio pre-amp and hands these over to the camera.
It should also provide the volume level to the main board for display and get level information from the input board via the main board somehow.
All the other pins should just be routed through from the main board to the camera.
I fuether guess that if I supply this board with power and connect it to the GH4, it may work on it's own (with a fixed level value).
If the amplifiers are similar to the NJM8202, they should have a 15V power supply.

2016-06-15

Ultimaker II filament sensor and remote control using Raspberry Pi

The Plan

This is still an idea, growing in my head. I don't know if or when I'll build it.

I want to attach a Raspberry Pi 3 to my Ultimaker II extended.
Obviously with Wifi and USB it will have

a camera, watching the print
~~a GPIO pin~~ an Octoprint API call telling the Ultimaker to pause the print (via a tiny firmware modification)

I will replace the small, plastic filament idler pulley on the back of the maching (opposite to the extruder drive mechanism) and replace it with a ball bearing and 2 sensors

a trivial 2 bit rotary encoder to meassure the speed and amount of the filament and auto-pause if no filament is transported anymore
a load cell with a Hx711 module to tell how much pulling force is applied and auto-pause on no force = filament empty and too much force = something blocks the filament from moving

The too much force - part means it will also detect obstacles that would otherwise lead to underextrusion because filament is still being transported but way less then there should be.

a second load cell in the modified "Low friction UM2 spoolholder" will meassure the weight of the spool and thus tell me how much filament is left.
the modification is a 12-20cm arm with the load cell attached

Status

DONE: Raspberry Pi with Octoprint installed
DONE: Designed parts for first prototype (using only Encoder and Dummy-Load Cells)
DONE: Rotary Encoder arrived
DONE: Pinout specified
DONE: Waiting for load cells and Hx711 from China
DONE: Test rotary encoder from Raspberry PI command line
DONE: Test Octoprint API from Raspberry PI command line
DONE: Convert rotary encoder values to binary positions, movements, direction and speed
DONE: Wrote a simple filament monitor script that detects stalls and reverse movement and pauses the print via the Octoprint API
DONE: Test Hx711 and load cell on Raspberry PI using Python
DONE: The current "pause" in the Octoprint API is dangerous for scripts. It can resume if issued twice. ->fixed in Octoprint update
DONE: solder the final cables and mount things on my UM2extended
DONE: designed modified "608 mount" to weight the remaining filament.
DONE: meassuring the weight of the remaining filament works!
DONE: Write the final software including monitoring pulling force and spool-scale
TODO: Write an assembly instruction including setting up the software.


MKI

MKII

Testing rotary encoder

Testing load cell for extruder pulling force

The software

I'm using a Raspberry Pi running Octoprint as the central controller.
The original plan was to use the Octoprint API.
For the final software (Here on GitHub) I decided to write an OctoPrint plugin.
I can not only detect if filament is supposed to move at the moment and issue a pause command without hacking the firmware and dual-using one of the homing switches as an E-Stop.
I can also display information (such as remaining filament) in the OctoPrint web interface
and offer my meassurements as new values in the OctoPrint API.

The parts

Low friction UM2 spoolholder - to be modified to pivot on it's hinge in the back of the UM2 and incorporate a load cell
PEC12R-4225F-S0024 rotary encoder - for filament movement and integrting movement into length used up
RasPi 3 + OctoPrint bundle

set up OctoPrint for UM2

Hx711 electrical attachment to RasPi
C-Code for Hx711 usage on RasPi

New method (using Octoprint API)

Old method (using GPIO signal to pause the printer):

Ultimaker II firmware (for pause via a GPIO pin)

Discussion about the same firmware modification I need
Nerd firmware with all bells and wistles
Open GitHub Issue for filament monitor support
Existing Marlin patch to apply for an external pause
Line, where to apply the patch in UM2Marlin repository

Ultimaker II filament sensor and remote control using Raspberry Pi

The Plan

This is still an idea, growing in my head. I don't know if or when I'll build it.

I want to attach a Raspberry Pi 3 to my Ultimaker II extended.
Obviously with Wifi and USB it will have

a camera, watching the print
~~a GPIO pin~~ an Octoprint API call telling the Ultimaker to pause the print (via a tiny firmware modification)

I will replace the small, plastic filament idler pulley on the back of the maching (opposite to the extruder drive mechanism) and replace it with a ball bearing and 2 sensors

a trivial 2 bit rotary encoder to meassure the speed and amount of the filament and auto-pause if no filament is transported anymore
a load cell with a Hx711 module to tell how much pulling force is applied and auto-pause on no force = filament empty and too much force = something blocks the filament from moving

The too much force - part means it will also detect obstacles that would otherwise lead to underextrusion because filament is still being transported but way less then there should be.

a second load cell in the modified "Low friction UM2 spoolholder" will meassure the weight of the spool and thus tell me how much filament is left.
the modification is a 12-20cm arm with the load cell attached

Status

DONE: Raspberry Pi with Octoprint installed
DONE: Designed parts for first prototype (using only Encoder and Dummy-Load Cells)
DONE: Rotary Encoder arrived
DONE: Pinout specified
DONE: Waiting for load cells and Hx711 from China
DONE: Test rotary encoder from Raspberry PI command line
DONE: Test Octoprint API from Raspberry PI command line
DONE: Convert rotary encoder values to binary positions, movements, direction and speed
DONE: Wrote a simple filament monitor script that detects stalls and reverse movement and pauses the print via the Octoprint API
DONE: Test Hx711 and load cell on Raspberry PI using Python
DONE: The current "pause" in the Octoprint API is dangerous for scripts. It can resume if issued twice. ->fixed in Octoprint update
DONE: solder the final cables and mount things on my UM2extended
DONE: designed modified "608 mount" to weight the remaining filament.
DONE: meassuring the weight of the remaining filament works!
DONE: Write the final software including monitoring pulling force and spool-scale
TODO: Write an assembly instruction including setting up the software.


MKI

MKII

Testing rotary encoder

Testing load cell for extruder pulling force

The software

The parts

Low friction UM2 spoolholder - to be modified to pivot on it's hinge in the back of the UM2 and incorporate a load cell
PEC12R-4225F-S0024 rotary encoder - for filament movement and integrting movement into length used up
RasPi 3 + OctoPrint bundle

set up OctoPrint for UM2

Hx711 electrical attachment to RasPi
C-Code for Hx711 usage on RasPi

New method (using Octoprint API)

Old method (using GPIO signal to pause the printer):

Ultimaker II firmware (for pause via a GPIO pin)

Discussion about the same firmware modification I need
Nerd firmware with all bells and wistles
Open GitHub Issue for filament monitor support
Existing Marlin patch to apply for an external pause
Line, where to apply the patch in UM2Marlin repository

2016-04-18

continuous Multicam recording

I know, I have too many cameras.
What do you say. It's a hobby of mine.

But every now and then I actually use all of them... at the same time.
Lectures and events have a tendency of ending up as multicam events that need more then 20 or 40 minutes per camera and should have their highest possible quality because they simply can't be repeated.

Surprisingly I got my hands on a used Ninja 2 on eBay.
Now I have completed my setup!
(inserts manic laughter here)

Center

One GH4R with no internal recording limit can be powered by an Atomos Power Station and record in 4:2:2 onto a Ninja Assassin in UHD for the wide shot that also gives crispy sharp, post-stabilized, post-panned FullHD medium shots as a crop. It doesn't move or refocus and thus needs little monitoring.(for Wifi monitoring I would have to switch from 10bit down to 8bit and I won't do that)
An internal MPEG backup recording is running.

Zoom H6 does the sound as 6 wav including - 4dB backup against clipping channels ,if not all channels are uses and has its line out run into the Ninja Assassin too. Channel 1+2 are the Mid/Side microphone because that gives perfect Mono down mix and can not have any stereo cancellations like the shotguns 3+4. 5+6 is a Rode VideoLink digital wireless channel to a Lavalier.

Remote Right

One Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera on the far right. Powered from a Lanparte V-mount plate. An Atomos H2S converts the HDMI to SDI.
An internal ProRes LT backup recording is running.
It provides FullHD Closeups from the right .
The SDI cable runs to left side.

Left

There am I with an Atomos Samurai Blade, monitoring and recording it and giving instructions via PMR radio to match my own framing.

Myself I am with another Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera, another Lanparte battery plate and the Ninja 2 for matching Closeups from the left side. Monitor is not as good and I have no scopes but I have my eyes and the screen of the camera.

Now we have wide shots from dead centered with any crop we desire and Closeups for dialogues from left and right.
Wenever something important is obscured from one side, we have 2 different angles to choose from.

Advantages

Each recording has a backup.
I can see what the opposite camera is doing including focus peaking and give instructions

HDD (Fullhd) and SSD (UHD) drives last forever
so do the batteries
audio from 3 locations +lav in case a chair chair squeaks and for a wide applause with no single shouts standing out
all recordings are in 10bit (or raw) - no banding when I pull the midtones up of down in post or pull up the shadows
all recordings are in ProRes (or raw) - fine noise floor for NeatVideo to work with and no MPEG artifacts
Editing off the 3 SATA drives directly with no need to copy anything

2016-04-11

GH4 und Lumix Club - Wie kriegt man die 100GB?

Mit dem V2.5 Firmware Upgrade für die GH4/GH4R soll man 100GB freien Speichersplatz bei Google Drive bekommen.
Kommt aus dieser Presse-Meldung:

http://www.presseportal.de/pm/14151/3293032
und wird auch so fleißig überall abgedruckt.

...bis man mal versucht das so zu machen.

Zitat:
"*Nutzer müssen sich zunächst im LUMIX CLUB (http://lumixclub.panasonic.net/ger/c/) registrieren, um dort den Speicherplatz für Google Drive zu erhalten und bis 30. September 2016 den Account Service aktivieren.
Eine Kurzanleitung zur LUMIX Club Registrierung ist verfügbar unter ftp://ftp.panasonic.com/camera/howto/compact_cameras_how_to_create_a_lumix_club_account_howto.html" 

Im Lumix Club findet sich kein "Google Drive" 
Einen "Account Service" gibt es dort gar nicht 
Auch die angegebene Kurzanleitung schwiegt sich zum "Account Service" und zu Google Drive aus. 
dafür aber das schon vor Jahren in Google+ aufgelöste Google Picasa -> Der Lumix Club zeigt auf der Startseite dem Nutzer 3 Wartungsmeldungen aus dem Jahre 2014  
Wird die Englische Sprach-Variante benutzt, kann für Support-Anfragen "Deutschland" nicht als Land ausgewählt werden 
Support-Anfragen sind auf ein Feld von nur einer Zeile und 20 Zeichen Breite beschränkt.

Wie zum Henker soll man das machen?

2016-04-09

Film making power box MK II

As many of you know, amateur film making is a hobby of mine.
One particular topic I started to adress was having all these different battery types and their chargers for all the cameras, hdmi recorders, monitors, lights, ...
A while ago, I made a charging box. A euro-sized box with a 19" power socket strip and 2 velcro strips to hold all my chargers in place.

charging box MK II

I upgraded my charging box to twice as many power sockets.
Also there are 4 rows of velcro, to hold twice as many chargers.

I'm still waiting for a universal charger with 2x2A and independently interchangeable plates for NP-F, GH4, AA/AAA and BMPCC batteries. That one will take up additional space and an additional power socket and I was already running out of both.

proper labeling

All NP-F batteries are now labeled with their size on side add front and all chargers with their maximum current and battery type.

There is enough confusion and chaos as it is.
Simple, ubiquitous tasks like Batteries and charging should not be a part of that.
1 standard, stackable Euro-sized box, 1 power cable, 1 switch and it even has sockets to spare.
All my chargers are attached with Velcro also can be removed to use them elsewhere and exchanged for different ones.

Each camera has its box and you can see the size of the batteries just by looking into the box (front) or when it is mounted in some device (side).

Lanparte VBP- 01

Why this emphasizis on NP-F? Because that's my ONE battery standard that can power everything now.

Two Lanparte V-mount plates arrived.
With 2xNP-F to V-mount adaptors I can now power everything(5V accessories, 7.4V cameras and recorders and 12V accessories and 12-15V cameras) , from one type of battery and from mains power while charging these batteries in the Lanparte without taking them off.
AND I have the option of renting huge, expensive V-mount batteries without even having to rent an expensive charger for very, very long sessions.
(The charging and mains power is the huge advantage of the more expensive Lanparte plates.)

Future project:
Add a step-up converter into the dual NP-F to V-mount adaptors, so they also work with only 1 battery. Meaning I can replace batteries on the go. Downside is: I will loose the ability to charge the NP-F.

WARNING
The ground level on left and right side of the Lanparte is different. Some people have burned their BMPCC and BMCC HDMI ports by powering an Hdmi recorder and the camera from the same plate while they are creating a ground loop via the HDMI cable.
I GUESS using the same side (you have 12V on both sides) SHOULD be safe.

Also the HDMI splitter in the Lanparte is incompatible with the signal a BMPCC outputs. I already knew this.

2016-04-08

should I get a laser cutter?

Today the Kickstarter campaign for Mr. Beam II started.

Version I was a kit for 500-600eur.
That's the price of the very common Chinese laser cutter. They take a lot of reworking to make them safe and reliable and the kit takes assembly.
So it's okay and I considered and finally declined it.

The price point

Version II comes fully assembled for 1400eur on Kickstarter and +40% later.
That's a lot of money.

Why shell out so much when you can upgrade a 600eur one?

Why get a personal one when you can travel to the nearest FabLab for such a seldomly done thing? (Same thing with a lathe when I have a 4 axis mill. )

What to use it for?

Let's see...
I have a large and a portable CNC milling machine and a super reliable 3D printer.

Plywood constructions
Any (ugly) plywood T-Slot cases I can do on a mill just as well. More noise but no fumes and no 4mm depth limit.

Labels, front plates and stamps
Engraving I can do on mills as well and I'm not even limited to flat objects but can make use of the rotational axis as well.
Stamps are easier to on a laser but that's a very seldom use.
Front plates need deep cuts in addition to labels.
Quite frankly I usually include the label, logo or QR code as an embossed part of the complex design itself instead of labeling things afterwards.

T-Shirts
Vinyl cutting I can do without heating and burning the material by mounting a knife in the CNC.

In addition to that I can do all kinds of complex, non flat shapes on the 3D printer.

Conclusion

I'll rather design a mount for the 4th milling axis with a vector knife in the spindle mount = vinyl and stamp vector cutting.
... and get a second 3D printer because the first one is running near 24/7 when I'm building another Robot Arm or other machine with lots of parts.
The large CNC mill was just as expensive then the - 40% Kickstarter laser and is much more versatile. But also louder and makes more of a mess.

2016-03-30

MyPrivateDisplay

I just installed a privacy screen protector on my phone.
Since I travel a LOT, I wanted people left and right of me to not be able to see the screen.

protection

Aparently it only limits the viewing angle left and right.
So in landscape mode, it does nothin at all.

colors

Colors still less saturated and highlights are clipping. Not very good.
It's like watching an overexposed photo of your screen.

touch

Tough screen working...so far.

2016-03-22

Building a "uStepper Robot Arm rev. 2" during EasterHegg

The Plan (tm)

During EasterHegg in Salzburg, I want to build a "uStepper Robot Arm rev. 2".
(Sorry, Thingiverse doesn't offer a nice iFrame-Embedding as YouMagine does.)

I want to build it, as it is. Using their assembly instructions from GitHub. Then check it out and install improvements.
Planned improvements are:

mounting holes for optical homing switches on the gears
reduce the number of different bolt sizes and ball bearings
Replace the uStepper with NEMA17 steppers controlled by a chain of L6470 (e.G. SparkFun AutoDriver boards) due to simpler synchronisation of multiple axes

3xAutoDriver - Stepper Motor Driver (Watterott: 2x 38eur , Sparkfun 34USD) 3A, 8-45V

15x 2 pin screw-on terminals with 3.1mm pitch (3xpower, 3xGND, 6xstepper coild, 3xE-Stop) "Schraubklemmen 2.54mm Pitch (2 Pin)"
5-6x 2x5 2.54mm headers (Comms-In + Comms-Out) "Wannen-Stiftleiste gerade 10 polig RM2,54"
5-6x 2x3 2.54mm headers (Meta-In + Meta-out)
"Wannen-Stiftleiste gerade 6 polig RM2,54"
2x cable for 2x5 2.54mm headers on both sides (SPI between boards)
1x cable for 2x5 2.54mm headers on one sides (SPI to Arduino)
3x cable for 2x3 2.54mm headers on one sides (Meta to Arduino)

3xNEMA17 (Watterott: 2x16eur) 0.33A, 12V
any power supply 1A, 12V for testing (final power supply will be 38-40V)

Change the joins with to not only be press-fit into the aluminium tubes but to have a bolt running across it (into the tube, through the join and out the tube on the other side) to allow for pulling small loads upwards.
Change the effector mount to use a standard ISO-9409-1-50-4-6 (=4xM6 on a 50mm circle)
Have a hole in the center of the mount to allow for cables

Preparation

I know the uStepper Robot Arm is still a Work In Progress.
I hope to get the original CAD files just in time for Easterhegg, so I can design my improvements.
I did get most of the parts from their BoM:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1398215#comment-834544

bearings

5x 608Z

standard skateboard-bearings.
for 8mm shafts
Z=closed on one side.
ZZ=closed on both sides or 608 = open will work too.

5x 625Z

for 5mm shafts(I'm missing these)

10x 624Z

for 4mm shafts

(I did an order of all standard bearings 3mm-8mm a while back. So I *hope* my stock has these covered.)

Nuts

20x M3
7x M4
1x M5
2x M8
(done)

Bolts

The BoM didn't specify the type of head or material for any bolts.
So I tried to stay with hexagonal headed and PH2 ones and tried to stay away from sink-hole bolts.

1x M8x40

used in Fig.10 - use hexagonal head, so you can have the bolt from below and nut on top. Other flat heads mean the nut has to be at the bottom and can fall out on disassembly.

1x M8x70

used as main axis for the large gears

1x M5x40

1x used in Fig.48

4x M4x20

2x used in Fig.55
1x used in Fig.56
1x used in Fig.57

1x M4x30

1x used in Fig.55

1x M4x35

1x used in Fig.63

1x M4x55 substituted M4x60 as 55mm was not avaliable.

1x used in Fig.65

15x M3x8 substituted M3x10 counter sunk head

use 4x (M3x10) in Fig.29
use 4x (M3x10) in Fig.31
use 4x (M3x10) in Fig.33
TODO: where to the other 3 go?

2x M3x10 substituted M3x10

2x used in Fig.25 - longer is okay. Any flat head type.

4x M3x12 substituted M3x16

4x used in Fig.9 - must be 11-13mm, head must have at most 5mm diameter

7x M3x20

5x used in Fig.3 - any flat head. steel brass or aluminium but even plastic bolts are okay.
2x used in Fig.21 - indended maximum head diameter 5mm but larger ones work if the head is at most 3mm in height

4x M3x30

4x used in Fig.44

Washers

5x M8 OD=15,8mm
4x M5 OD=9,8mm
2x M4 OD=8.8mm
I didn't find ANY of these sizes. So I hope grabbing large and small washers for M4,M5 and M8 from my stock will do.

Spacers

1x 14m (update: inner diameter just wider then M8 threads)
1x 7mm (update: inner diameter just wider then M4 threads)
Didn't find any because the BoM doesn't specify what kind of spacers they talk about.
I can't find them on the image nor the instructions.

Update: found them. Fig.36 has a typo and speaks of "space" instead of "spacers". Aparently they must have an inner diameter to fit an M8 and M4 bolt loosely.

tubes

The instructions don't specify if they talk about the outher or inner diamter
and what wall thickness is expected. (Clearly as seen in figure 20 and 22, inner AND outher diameter are important.)

1x 15x300 I got 1m of 16x1mm, it seems to be a snug fit in Gears_main_arm_15mm.stl, large_joins.stl fits but is a bit loose
1x 15x220
2x 6x240 I got 1m of 6x1mm
1x 6x252

...as you can see. The pure number of DIFFERENT bolt sizes is staggering.

Progress

Done:

sourcing all nuts and bolts (some bolts replaced by longer versions)
cutting tubes to length
assembled the first parts. List of suggestions for improvements is growing...
Written the source code that will rund this arm using G-Code to control L6470 chips.
Assembled the original design as far as I can without the 625Z bearings.
I forked the project on github to post an improved version of the parts and the manual

Doing :

Waiting for the electronics
manual is coming along nicely...
starting to design improved parts...

Notes about assembly instructions

name inner+outher diameter of tubes
name head-type of bolts

M8x40 is for Fig. 10, any flat head. Steel brass or aluminium
M3x20 is for Fig.3 and ??? any flat head. steel brass or aluminium but even plastic bolts are okay.
...

name where longer versions of bolts are acceptable and up to what length
name and show all dimensions for spacers (one is for M8, the other for M5)
Fig.1: a 608 (no covers) would do just as well as a 608z(cover on one side) or 608zz (covers on both sized)
Fig.2: prepare how? What am I supposed to do in this step?
Fig.3: no comment
Fig.4 use M3x20.
Fig.5: no comment
Fig.6: use a sturdy table to help press-fit the 608Z or 608ZZ skateboard bearing
Fig.7: "prepare" means "insert M3 nuts"
Fig.8: this is "side2.stl", not "side1.stl"
Fig.9: use M3x12 (at most 13mm) to mount the sides to the base?
Fig.10: use M8x40mm
- M8 x 40mm
Fig.11: add an M8 washer of 9-12mm (if not included as a feature of base.stl)
Fig.12: use M3x8mm(M3x10 works too) to mount the small gear to the motor-shaft
Fig.13:

M3x10 is too short for the NEMA17 motor but the M3x8 are the only ones we have >12pcs of ??? (same for Fig.29+31. Question asked here)
you may want to do this before Fig.12 because the mounted motor determines where on the shaft the gear has to be

Fig.14: no comment
Fig.15: no comment
Fig.16: no comment
Fig.17: use a sturdy table to help press-fit the 608Z or 608ZZ skateboard bearing
Fig.18: no comment
Fig.19

Is this large_joint.stl ?
The "main arm" the short 15mm pipe

Fig.20: use glue and/or a drill and an additional M3x20 with a self-locking M3 nut
Fig.21: use M3x20mm
Fig.22: no comment
Fig.23: use a sturdy table to help press-fit the 608Z or 608ZZ skateboard bearing
Fig.24 TODO: I seem to be missing 624Z or 624ZZ bearings
Fig.25: use M3x10mm
Fig.26: no comment
Fig.27: TODO: what size of washers?
Fig.28:

use M3x8mm(M3x10 works too)
don't forget about the M3 nut (hole is slightly larger then M3)
use the thinner one of the 2 small gears

Fig.29: use 4x M3x10mm, make use of the recess for the bolt-heads
Fig.30:

use M3x8mm(M3x10 works too) to mount the small gear to the motor-shaft
use the wider one of the 2 small gears

Fig.31: use 4x M3x10mm, make use of the recess for the bolt-heads
Fig.32: this is needed because you can't reach all 4 motor-bolts with the main gear on
Fig.33: use 4x M3x10mm, make use of the recess for the bolt-heads
Fig.34: no comment
Fig.35: no comment

Fig.36

"space" should be "spacer"
Spacer is 14mm long and fits around an M8 bolt

Fig.38 one washer between gear and side plate is plenty
...
Fig.44:

use 4x M3x30mm, bolt heat must be <4mm in diameter
bracket_part1.stl
bracket_part2.stl

Fig.45: nothing to do here
Fig.46: nothing to do here
Fig.47 see comment for Fig.48
Fig.48 why M5? It's the only 5mm bolt in the entire construction and introduces an entirely new type of ball bearing. M4 would have worked just the same.
Fig.49 one washer on the bearing, the other where the bolt exits
Fig.50 one washer where the bolt exits
Fig.51 this should be a nylon locking nut or else it will shake loose.
Fig.52: nothing to do here
Fig.53: nothing to do here
Fig.54: nothing to do here
Fig.55

use 1x M4x30 on the secondary arm joint
use 2x M4x20 on the 2 rods that connect to the triangle
TODO: Where to put what rod-length and what side to mount to (inside/outside)

Fig.56

use 1x M4x20 on the rod that connect to the triangle

Fig.57: use 1x M4x20
Fig.58: nothing to do her
Fig.59: nothing to do here
Fig.60: no comment
Fig.61: nothing to do here
Fig.63: use M4x35
Fig.64
Fig.65: use M4x55 (or longer)
Fig.66: finished! (with the mechanical hardware)

Notes about improvements:

holes for bolts should have a camfer to make inserting bolts easier by having them self-align.

the holes for the 608 bearings work surprisingly well without them but it would still be a good idea since not every printer produces dimensionally accurate results.

labeling the holes with the bolt-sizes costs nothing in 3d printing.
use less different bolt sizes
name bolt sizes in assembly steps
all parts are very low resolution. Lots of clearly visible polygon-edges.
Gears are a highly simplified design. They however do have only little backlash.
...
base.stl

M3 bolt-holes too small. 3.1mm would be better.
M3 nut-holes could use a camfer (any stray sterand of filament makes this harder).
my bolts have a 6mm wide head. The hole is 5mm. Wider heads should be supported.
Make M8 hole smaller to allow for M8 washer of 9-12mm to sit on bottom 608/608Z/608ZZ bearing OR include that washer as a feature of the base.stl design

Gears_bottom_edited_plus10.stl

M3 bolt-holes too small. 3.2mm would be better (slightly larger then the hole in the side that holds the nut).
nuts are inserted too deep. You can't align them after having them fall down the shaft to meet the bolt.

side_plate1.stl

is a very tight fit into base.stl
a tapper on the nuts that slide into base.stl coult also help.
holes for M3 nuts should be hexagonal and closed on one side to prevent the tiny bolt from slipping out. (This isn't laser-cutting.)
move the bolt that doesn't go through the bottom gear further outwards, so it can be removed without having to disassemble the bottom gear.

Gears_main_arm_15mm.stl

camfer for 3mm bolts needed. Any stray strand of filament makes this harder then it needs to be
label the gear "main gear"

Gears_second_arm.stl

no tapper for M5 nuts
mirror the small gear to have the bolt on the inside of the machine (accessible from above). That way it won't interfere with a longer bolt in the side_plates and the side plate can be made stronger by not having the access tunnes for this bolt.

second_gear_arm.stl

no hexagonal holes for the M3 nuts. They may shake loose.

link.stl

M4 hole is too tight
large hole needs camfer. Hard to inser.
A flat instead of round end should make push-fitting the rod with force easier

triangle.stl

M3 holes definately need a camfer
convert to use M4 and get rid of the 625Z bearing size in favor of only using 624Z

end_part3.stl

integrate the M4 spacer into this part

bracket_part1.stl

wider brace to allow for 16mm aluminium rods
convert to use M4 and get rid of the 625Z bearing size in favor of only using 624Z

bracket_part2.stl

should have a slightly wider holt then bracket_part1.stl , so the bolt fastens properly in the plastic
should allow for wider bolt-heads
wider brace to allow for 16mm aluminium rods
convert to use M4 and get rid of the 625Z bearing size in favor of only using 624Z

Software

I'm planning to use this trivial Arduino G-Code parser, throw out the Bresenham line algorithm (since we need not generate step+dir pulses ourself) to instead feed tool-coordinates into the L6470 Autodriver boards.

Result

2016-01-26

recording and matching V-Log on the GH4 camera externally

The few things I blog here are mostly about making things.
However I DO have another hobby. Cinematography. Especially the technical aspects.
Currently I do use 2 Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Cameras and I have waited patiently for years to get a good deal on a non-EU GH4 or GH4R to combine 2 FullHD closeups (left and right interview subject/dialog participant/stage side) with a DCI 4K or UHD wide shot that acts as both wide and semi-wide by taking FullHD crops in post.

Motivation

I'm finally going to get a GH4R with an external recorder.
Recording much on Blackmagic Pocket cameras, V-Log looks nice.
However there are some reports of issues it has. Many with 8bit 4:2:0 internal recording and sounding like they may go away with 10bit 4:2:2 recording.

Status: I did receive the GH4R and Ninja Assasin. However the Power Station is going to run late.
I'm not entirely disapointed about that, given the bug of the current Power Station mentioned below.

Reading material on V-Log

This is the text-list I have come up with so far to get a grip on this topic:

Very interesting read on VLog vs. Cinelike-D vs. Natural on the FH4 when using 10bit external recording and 8bit internal recording on the #GH4.

Linked to from this discussion:
http://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/9431-v-log-l-captured-in-8-bit-vs-10-bit/

after reding this in-depth anylysis of the color-spaces:
http://forum.slashcam.de/gh4-aces-unterstutzung-vt127380.html
(better LUTs then the ones from Panasonic at the bottom of the thread.)

Some practical analysis of V-Log in 10bit here:
http://www.provideocoalition.com/v-log-l-on-the-gh4-don-t-panic

conclusions about V-Log

Record V-Log externally as compressing this huge dynamic range into 8 bit 4:2:0 MPEG leaves you with banding and green+magenta noise.
Maybe overexpose slightly when using V-Log to reduce noise in the shadows.
(8-bit ProRes seems to work well but...file size doesn't matter when recording to a hard disk/SSD-drive. anyway )

whenever possible but only recorded externally
priority on high dynamic range (e.g. lights at night)
high contrast situations (e.g. film noir)

For scenes with low dynamic range but important skin tones, "Natural" or "Cinelike-D" seem to be called for.

when priority is on subtle skin tones
when subtle gradients in the midtones are important (deep blue sky, rolling but bright fog)
hazy footage where focusing gets difficult (unless I can focus with a LUT and peaking on the recorder)
when recording internally

power everything

The Atomos Ninja Assasin for external recording comes with an Atomos Power station.
Aparently the Assasin drains batteries like crazy (not as crazy as the Blackmagic Pocket). So Atomos hands out larger batteries for the early adopters and makes a limited time deal for Power Stations to the later crowd.
It already includes the adapter to also power the GH4.

HOWEVER, numerous reports state that the Power Station has a few flaws in it's current firmware or hardware.

Same battery in Power Station lasts just half as long as directly plugged into the Ninja Assasin/Shogun
Full Batteries in Power Station suddenly reported as empty

The voltage detection seems to be confused with the large power draw of the Shogun. It works fine with a small camera. My guess is that due to the power draw the voltage drops and thus the batteries are reported as empty way ahead of time.

matching cameras

Obviously I want to match the GH4 to the two BMPCC.
I found the color chart automatic matching in Davincy Resolve to be a great starting point.
However it does not match gain (white level 786 vs 1024), gamma (grey at 130 vs 250) and olive/green seems to be rendered differently (despite nothing non-green having any color cast at all).

The perfect way to go seems to be ACES "Academy Color Encoding System".
Yes, that's the Academy as in Academy Awards = Orcars.
Yes, Resolve V12 can convert footage into the camer-neutral XYZ color space using an IDT=input device transform.
Yes, there are IDTs for GH4 in V-Log and BMPCC in ProRes (Cinema DNG does not need an IDT as it contains all that transform information).
No, Resolve can not import IDTs and is limited to the few it has.
Choosing BMDFilm for the flat BMPCC and Sony SLog for the Panasonic V-Log gets you close.
However not as close as the color-chart.

Since I can't do this properly yet, I'll use it as a simply starting point whenever I can't have a color chart before/after the shot.

2016-01-08

Warum "Wiso EÜR+Kasse 2016" (Mac) sch*** ist.

Vor kurzem habe ich die folgende Bewertung (2 vom 5 Sternen) für die o.G. Software angegeben:

Navigation und Prüfung mangelhaft. Abschreibungen schlecht

Buchungen zu Abschreibungen dürfen nicht bereits aus dem Online-Banking rein gekommen sein.
Eine absolut weltfremde Trennung.
Buchungen zu AfA-Gütern allgemein unnötig kompliziert.
Keine Navigation aus Buchung in Ausgabe-Konten und zurück.
Eigentlich überhaupt keine Navigation durch die Buchungen auf Ausgabe-Konten.
Ausgabe-Konten nur sehr unständlich über Reports erreichbar.
Prüfung muss mit Papier und Bleistift erfolgen.
Vergleich von Konto-Salden mit Buchungsliste und navigation zurück zur ersten Abweichung nicht sinnvoll möglich.
Navigieren von Konten als endlose Liste, wie zu Störtebeckers Zeiten, statt als der Baum, den sie aufspannen.

Verfasst von Marcus W. am 07. Januar 2016

Kommentar des Buhl Teams
Sehr geehrter Herr W.,

vielen Dank für Ihr Feedback zur Software WISO eür+Kasse:Mac 2016.

Bedauerlicherweise können wir die von Ihnen beschriebenen Sachverhalte nicht nachvollziehen. Sehr gerne überprüfen wir Ihre Anmerkungen zur Software WISO eür+Kasse:Mac 2016.

Zu einer genaueren Prüfung benötigen wir von Ihnen noch weitere Informationen und bitten Sie, sich zur weiteren Klärung direkt mit den Kollegen des technischen Supports in Verbindung zu setzen. Diese erreichen Sie beispielsweise per Festnetz-Rufnummer unter 02735 / 90 96 90 oder indem Sie auf https://kundencenter.buhl.de ein "Ticket einreichen".

Mit freundlichen Grüßen

Kommentiert von Buhl Data Service GmbH

Naja...wenn man so grundlegende Sachen "nicht nachstellen kann", dann braucht es wohl ein wenig Hilfestellung und ich sollte das mal als Blog-Beitrag aufbereiten.

Updates

Das erste was eine frisch von der Website heruntergeladene Version machen will... ist 30MB an Updates zu ziehen.
Offensichtlich schafft es hier jemand nicht wenigstens auf der eigenen Website für Abonenten die aktuelle Version vorzuhalten. Immerhin gibt es auch Leute die ihre Fibu Offline nutzen.

Trennung Afa-Buchungen und Online-Banking

Der Sinn von Online-Banking ist daß alle Buchungen rein kommen und man genau sieht, daß wirklich keine fehlt, keine doppelt ist, alle das richtige Datum, den richtigen Eur-Wert und den richtigen Wert in der Orginal-Währung haben (wenn denn Wiso hier mehrere Währungen unterstützen würde).

Nun gibt es aber auch Wirtschaftsgüter, die man abschreiben muss.
Deren (erst/zu-)Kauf-Buchungen muss man in den AfA Dialogen anlegen. Da die Buchung aber schon durch das Online-Banking da ist (man hat das Wirtschaftsgut ja bereits gekauft und per Überweisung oder Kreditkarte bezahlt),
fehlt hier einfach die Möglichkeit die existierende Buchung auszuwählen statt eine neue anzulegen.

Antwort von Buhl Data:

Üblicherweise werden Umsätze von Bankkonten abgerufen und anschließend verbucht. Wird bei diesem Vorgang die Buchungsart "Freie Buchung" und ein entsprechendes Anlagekonto ausgewählt, öffnet sich üblicherweise ein Assistent für das Anlagevermögen und die Neuanschaffung wird programmunterstützt verbucht. Diese Funktionalität ist in der aktuellen Version defekt. Dies wird mit einem kommenden Programm-Update behoben. Wir bitten um etwas Geduld.

Hätte ich jetzt ohne die Nachfrage und diese Antwort nie gemerkt daß das so gehen sollte. Gibt absolut keinen Hinweis darauf.

Konten-Baum

Die Konten in einer Fibu spannen einen logischen Baum auf.
So sieht das in Gnucash aus:

Man navigiert den Baum hinunter.
A-Aktiva -> 1000 Konten -> 1200 Bankkonten -> 1201 eigenes Firmenkonto

So wählt man statt dessen in Wiso ein Konto aus:

Eine endlos lange Liste.
Es mag unter Buchhaltern normal sein die Nummern z.B. eines SKR03 Kontenramens auswendig zu kennen aber in einer Software für die kleine Pommes-Bude von nebenan erwartet man heutzutage eher:

eine Baum-Navigation um sich zum richtigen Unterbaum und schließlich Konto vortasten zu können
eine Suchfuntion (existiert) welche die Liste beim Tippen verkürzt (existiert nicht) und so auch weit voneinander entfernte Treffer (e.B. bei Suche nach "Auto") finden zu können
Bonus Punkte für die Nutzung eines Deutschen Synonym-Wörterbuches, wenn jemandem die exakte Schreibweise des gesuchten Ausgaben-Kontos nicht einfallen will.

All das existiert nicht.

Antwort von Buhl Data:

Zum Einschränken der beim Buchungsvorgang vorgeschlagenen Konten können Sie die bereits aktuell vorhandene Funktion im Menü "Verwaltung > Konten aktivieren" verwenden. Hier können Sie nicht bebuchte und nicht benötigte Konten einfach per Mausklick ausblenden. Zudem erfolgt bereits eine Beschränkung der ausgewählten Konten durch die Auswahl der Buchungsart (Einnahme, Ausgabe und so weiter) während der Erfassung der Buchung. Weiterhin besteht auf der rechten Seite die Möglichkeit auf den Kontenplan umzuschalten, der dort komfortabel durchsucht werden kann. Das gefundene Konto können Sie dann per Doppelklick direkt in das markierte Kontenfeld übernehmen. Eine Suchfunktion mit Synonymen existiert zum aktuellen Zeitpunkt tatsächlich nicht.

Ändert natürlich absolut nichts an der Steinzeit-Denke daß Konto eine Liste sind, die man mit den Augen durchsucht oder auswendig lernt statt einem Baum.

Buchungsvorlagen erzeugen....nicht aus dem Online-Banking

Erzeugt man eine Buchung manuell, so hat man diesen praktischen Link "aus dieser Buchung eine Vorlage erzeugen".
Nur leider erstellte man im 21 Jahrhundert 99% der Buchungen nicht selbst sondern bekommt sie über das Online-Banking rein.
Genau hier gibt es diesen Link aber eben nicht.
Wiso erwartet ernthaft, daß man weiter macht und die restlichen 200 Online-Buchungen zu Ende importiert, dann in die Buchungs-Liste geht, irgendwie versucht in der endlosen Liste die einzelnen Buchungen wieder zu finden aus der man Vorlagen erzeugen möchte (die man in den 200 anderen Buchungen des gleichen Imports sicher gebraucht hätte, warum sonst verspührt man den Bedarf nach eine neuen Vorlage), dann die Vorlagen zu erstellen.

Das war mit der 2015 Version. Die 2016 scheint beim Abruf von der Bank reproduzierbar einfach stecken zu bleiben und auch nach Minuten nicht mehr auf Eingaben zu reagieren.
Der Button "Abbrechen" führt nur dazu daß der Dialog "Umsätze abrufen..." gleich wieder erscheint und bricht nicht etwa das Abrufen der Umsätze tatsächlich ab.
Update: Es ist der nächste Morgen und das Teil ist immer noch dabei die "Umsätze abzurufen" und lässt sich weder über "Abbrechen" dazu bewegen aufzuhören, noch über "Beenden" im Apple Launcher.

Antwort von Buhl Data:

Möchten Sie aktuell aus einer bestimmten Buchung des Online-Bankings eine Vorlage erstellen, verwenden Sie bitte eine bereits verarbeitete Buchung. Die verinzelt auftretende Unstimmigkeit beim Abruf der Bankumsätze wird aktuell ebenfalls durch die Kollegen der Entwicklungsabteilung geprüft. Auch hier wird eine Korrektur mit einem kommenden Update erfolgen.

Also....ja, das ist tatsächlich so und wird auch in kommenden Versionen nicht absehbar besser.

Konten-Navigation

Nun bin ich mal in einer Buchung im Bank-Konto.....in Wiso kann ich NUR im Bank-Konto sein.
Ich habe keine Möglichkeit in eines der Ausgaben/Einnahmen-Konto zu navigieren um zu prüfen, welche anderen Buchungen dort sind.

Ein Augaben-Konto ist genau so ein Konto wie ein Aktiva-Konto. Es gibt genau gar keinen Grund hier keine Navigation zu haben.

Will man in Wiso die Buchungen eines Ausgaben-Kontos durchsehen, so führt der einzige Weg über einen PDF-Report Aller Buchungen Aller Konten.
Ja...das ist deren Ernst.

Willkommen in den 1990ern.

Abo-Modell

Ob man eine Fibu für 2015 oder 2016 macht ist für eien Fibu-Software kein Unterschied.
Trotzdem ist die Wiso-Software künstlich verkrüppelt worden um nur das eine Jahr verarbeiten zu können.
Man muss sie jedes Jahr auf's neue kaufen.
Wiso EÜR+Kasse 2016 ist keine neuere Version von 2015, es ist der gleiche *** noch mal.
Oder finden sie auf der Website oder sonstwo eine Angabe, was an der 2016 Version besser geworden ist und warum man updaten sollte?
Das ist nicht nur einfach unschön, es ist kaputt.
Denn in den ersten Tagen des neuen Jahres eingebende Zahlungen die zu Vorgängen aus dem Vorjahr gehören (z.B. das Entgeld am 2.1. zur Arbeit im Dezember des Vorjahres) gehören zum Vorjahr.
Das Online-Banking Modul ignoriert aber alle herein kommenden Buchungen, die zum neuen Jahr gehören.

2016-06-27

Setup

SSH

GPIO fun

Camera

Cura slicing

Ultimaker II setup

Profile (UM2 extended)

Profile (UM2 go)

Profile (UM2)

G-Code

Cura 15

Cura 2.1

Ultimaker II attachment

mechanical

Electrical

Settings

Links:

2016-06-20

2016-06-18

Project

Disassembly

Power supply

SDI out

Audio board

Links

2016-06-15

The Plan

Status

The software

The parts

The Plan

Status

The software

The parts

2016-04-18

Center

Remote Right

Left

Advantages

2016-04-11

2016-04-09

charging box MK II

proper labeling

Lanparte VBP- 01

Links

2016-04-08

2016-03-30

protection

colors

touch

2016-03-22

The Plan (tm)

Preparation

bearings

Nuts

Bolts

Washers

Spacers

tubes

Progress

Software

Result

Links

2016-01-26

Motivation

Reading material on V-Log

conclusions about V-Log

power everything

matching cameras

Links:

2016-01-08

Navigation und Prüfung mangelhaft. Abschreibungen schlecht

Kommentar des Buhl Teams

Updates

Trennung Afa-Buchungen und Online-Banking

Konten-Baum

Buchungsvorlagen erzeugen....nicht aus dem Online-Banking

Konten-Navigation

Abo-Modell